Replacing my bed for Bedouin

The table of Bedouin bags snapped me back in to a state of sartorial alertness.

For the past couple of days I have been walking around press days in a cloud of sickness induced apathy. Of course I have seen a great number of collections that would normally leave me open mouthed and clammy palmed but I found it difficult to become as excited as I really should do because when I've not been in bed I've longed to rest my weary head. I was soon snapped out of it though after I encountered Bedouin. Bedouin make well designed high quality bags that can snap any man back in to a state of sartorial alertness. Every aspect of their leather creations is thought through in extreme detail. The bags are hand made in England, using a level of craftsmanship and attention to detail that English luggage makers are known and admired for. The bags are inspired by traditional craft, geometric art, the macabre and surrealism and are designed for comfort and durability.

An everyday bag, ideal for the daily commute and will fit all your daily essentials comfortably.

In addition to being hand crafted in England, the very best of materials are sourced from across Europe. Fabrics are sourced from the best British suppliers for their quality, durability and feel. The leathers are European or British and are naturally tanned using vegetable tanning agents. Stitching is of the highest quality and weight. Each is made with waterproof waxed cotton or canvas (120z Rhinowax is used for the tote and messenger) and designed with the specific function fully in mind. The hardware on the bags is sourced from the best engineering companies, zippers are from Switzerland and the Cobra buckles are forged in Austria and are noted for being the worlds strongest buckle.

The Mamluke - a great weekend away bag or a larger daily bag.

What sets these bags apart is that they are beautifully made and perfectly proportioned for each use. The Mamluke overnight bag, the Barbary messenger bag, the Janissary laptop bag and the Medina tote are all fit for purpose, like any good piece of design. These bags will certainly protect your belongings. At Bedouin they believe in quality and each purchase should last a lifetime. They do not believe in disposable fashion and an endless replacement cycle; buy quality and buy it once. They are extremely confident of the quality and workmanship of their bags, which is why they offer a lifetime guarantee on materials and workmanship from normal wear and tear. Everything is cut by hand and then stitched on a couple of heavyweight machines, there are no shortcuts taken in the creation of these bags.

The new look Medina tote bag particularly caught my eye.

You might have seen a well written piece in the new and improved fashion section of the Times this morning (available to view online here). In the well written piece that saw the stylist examine the handbag fixation he was forced to declare that "this (Bedouin) newly launched hand made in England brand has done for me what the Alexa and Hillier are doing for my lady friends." To put it simply he had found a collection of bags that he would happily parade around town regardless of whether they were empty or not and confessed that he now needs one in every colour. After seeing the bags up close I can certainly see where he was coming from.

Update: I have just seen another great piece on Bedouin over on Gentleman's Corner. Via this piece I learnt that the brand is headed up by Silas Grant, a CSM graduate and ex senior design specialist at Nokia. Grant says, “In my opinion, selling a bad product on the prestige of your brand is a short term strategy, and not sustainable for the long term. Classic quality never goes out of fashion. I keep the prices really tight at Bedouin, but quality does cost more. Buy quality and buy it once”.

The Barbary - a large capacity professional Courier Bag designed to fit the body, contract and expand depending on the load being carried.

Bedouin base the design of each bag on the metaphor of the Bedouin tent. A nomadic shelter, rugged and weatherproof on the outside, whereas inside they offer luxury, shelter and comfort. Their bags follow the same metaphor, rugged and durable on the outside, dust proof and water resistant. Inside, printed linings and padded compartments provide secure storage for any personal possessions. I personally love the addition of the distinctive and macabre illustrations that decorate each of the bags interior cotton linings. These are far from your typical 'manbags' and I'm pleased that I swapped my bed for Bedouin.

A look inside the Barbary.

Travel Organised

Smythson of Bond Street is one of the UK's most revered luxury leather goods labels. Established in 1887 by Frank Smythson, an entrepreneur and inventor of the brand's signature blue Featherweight paper, Smythson's attention to detail and quality craftsmanship quickly found favor with an elite clientele. Today, the company boasts three Royal warrants and the Prime Minister's wife as Creative Director. It has always been more than a mere stationary shop. It is something of an institution on one of London's most revered retail streets. I have often walked past, peered inside and resisted temptation to venture in to this unfamiliar but fine smelling world (oh I do love the scent of leather). Thankfully, despite my nervous disposition, I am now a proud owner of a Smythson item.

This Christmas, my sister and brother-in-law have come up trumps in the gifting trumps. After being spoiled rotten in recent years, with gifts ranging from a Le Creuset pot to Bose headphones, they have excelled in both the fine art of giving and gratuitous art of spoiling. This Passport Holder comes in butter soft Nile Blue calfskin leather. It is something that I'd never buy myself but I am now so pleased that someone has. The travel organiser comes with two subtly embossed pockets for a passport and boarding pass. I no longer have an excuse for either losing or fumbling with my travel documents.

Despite being hugely comfortable in front of the television with a mind boggling amount of food this festive season, this present makes me long to travel. Here's to a jet setting 2011.

Advent - Day Fourteen

So, here we are, day fourteen of our Advent calendar and I am full of cold. Despite my incessant sniffles and grumbles, the show must go on. Today we feature the commercial desires of one of the most active men in the industry, Steve Monaghan. Sane Communications is an agency for a selection of some of the finest fashion and lifestyle brands and covetable products on the market. His client list reads like a who's who of menswear and includes oi polloi, Lavenham, Bedouin, Happy Socks and Penfield to name just a few. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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DARK HORN HANDLE WALKING STICK


"A walking cane and a field spaniel. The field spaniel would be called Murdoch X and the cane would come from here."

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Style Salvage Speaks to...French & English Confectioner's

The wonderfully named shoe and accessories label French & English Confectioner's first came to our attention after one one of its breathtakingly beautiful, hand made patent leather rucksacks was included as one of Fantastic Man's daily recommendations. Since the 18th May we caught sight of it once again during Nathalie Tunna's GFW show and have subsequently attempted to find out as much information about the craftslady behind it all, Cordwainer trained designer Lucie Gonnord. Gonnord's shoe obsession, which began at the age of five with her school sandals, combined with career twists and turns through animation and t-shirt design, culminated in a decision to create one-off and limited edition shoes and bags. All of F&EC's designs are expertly handmade in London. The ever-evolving collection, inspired by the simple designs of a 1970's childhood and a love for all things pop is a sophisticated distraction from the throwaway fashion of the high street. The tradition of hand-making shoes has all but died out in this country but Gonnord uses old equipment and vintage lasts to help keep the tradition alive. Here we talk to the designer about her creations and are allowed a rare glimpse of her secret London workshop...

A look around Lucie Gonnord's workshop...

SS: What were your inspiration, your dreams, and the driving catalyst behind French & English Confectioner's?
Lucie Gonnord: After studying shoemaking at Cordwainers, I started to develop an idea for a design label that would enable me to hand-make my designs. Making is as important to me as designing. Sitting in an office designing for someone else has never appealed to me.

I wanted to continue the tradition of hand-making shoes which has all but died out in this country, and use old equipment and lasts. Making shoes is a very time-consuming process, with little financial reward. You have to do it for love! Making bags too has helped me create a more viable business.

SS: What does French & English Confectioner's mean to you?
Lucie Gonnord: An old sign painted with the words French & English Confectioner’s was revealed during a shop refit opposite my boyfriend’s work in Tufnell Park. He’s a chef and wanted to use the name for his restaurant. After a bit of persuasion, he very kindly gave the name to me, as it fit so well with my ideas. For my website I wanted to create the atmosphere of an old-fashioned shop, and I’m half English, half French. I found out later that the definition of a confection also used to apply to a shoe. I asked a local who had grown up in the area, and he remembered the shop and the jars of sweets in the window.

Hand stitching

SS: What were the first and last item you remember designing?
Lucie Gonnord:The first item I designed for F&EC’s was a pair of women’s shoes, inspired by the Roxy Music song Virginia Plain. They were navy blue 5in platform Mary-Janes with a cream frill down the side, and only came in one size. I didn’t sell any!


I’m currently working on women’s t-bar sandals with a hand-stitched sole. I’ve never made shoes this way before (I normally glue the soles), so it will be a challenge. I love stitching by hand, and this is a traditional technique in shoemaking. I’m beginning to incorporate hand-stitching into some of my bag designs too.

SS: As all of your designs are expertly handmade in London, craft and local manufacture are obviously very important to you. Can you talk us through some of the process involved in creating your bags? What can you tell us about the workshop?
Lucie Gonnord: After making the pattern, which takes a lot of time and thought, I cut the leather by hand and prepare all the straps, fittings and buckles. I skive (make thinner) the leather for trims by hand. I sew everything on my 1930’s machine, which has a post bed especially made for shoemaking. It’s a bit of a beast and unbelievably heavy, but still works really well. Then I fit all the eyelets and rivets.

A closer look at the craftsmanship of the rucksack

SS: Could you talk us through your current range of bags for men and the inspiration for each?
Lucie Gonnord: I designed a music case, inspired by one that my brother had as a kid. It was vintage even then, and had J. Arrowsmith scrawled in ink on the inside, so I named it after that. It’s perfect for carrying a laptop in.

The patent leather rucksack was specifically designed for men, but works well as a unisex piece. It’s based on the classic canvas rucksack you used to see everywhere in the 70s, but can’t get anywhere now. The two-tone patent gives it a modern reworking.

The weekend bag was the design that started me making bags. I was going to Paris for the weekend and didn’t have any chic luggage! I then made one for my friend, Stephen, who cycles everywhere. He was impressed that he could fit and carry four bottles of Prosecco in it! It also works well as an everyday bag. I still use mine all the time. Making it made me realise that bags could be a good addition to my designs.

The Arrowsmith, Tote and Messenger

SS: The website informs us that men's shoes will soon be available. As a self confessed shoe obsessive, what would you like to see on men's feet? What does the new collection look like?
Lucie Gonnord: I only use vintage lasts for my shoe designs, as I want to re-use old equipment rather than buying new. I’m still looking for a set of men’s lasts, it’s difficult to find a full size run, but as soon as I do I will design a small collection for men. Most of my designs are re-workings of old classics, so I’d like to make simple, wearable shoes, which hopefully will be unique and interesting, but not over-designed.

I like the fact that more men are now wearing proper shoes, like Church’s, and getting away from trainers. I also have a hatred of flip-flops, so a nice, smart covering of the feet always makes me happy!

Designing for men is always a challenge, finding the balance between something interesting and something men actually want to wear.

SS: Is there an item of clothing or accessory that you’d like to see more men wear?
Lucie Gonnord: It’s nice to see more men wearing smart, classic accessories and coats, and investing in pieces that will last. I prefer stylish to fashionable, especially on men.

The patent leather rucksack in all its beauty.

SS: If you could go back in time and experience any moment in style, what would it be?
Lucie Gonnord: The 1930s and 40s, when all men wore hats! And people looked after and repaired their clothes and shoes. People seemed generally to be more well-groomed then. Now it’s so easy to run around in jeans and trainers, I’m the worst for it when I’m busy, so I really admire people who make the effort to look dapper.

SS: Finally, how do you see French & English Confectioner's developing over the next few years?
Lucie Gonnord: First of all, I want to build up the business to a point where I don’t have to work as well! My aim was always to make an OK living out of it, but it takes a lot of time and hard work to feel secure enough to take the leap.

Building up the label online is my first priority. Then hopefully I’d like to open a shop/workshop. If you’re paying for somewhere to work, it makes sense to be able to sell from it as well. I also think it’s good for people to see things being made.

When I have more time, I’d like to start making more shoes again. Taking on apprentices is something I want to do in the future.

The 1930s machine in action

Advent - Day Twenty Three

3939 launched as a lifestyle and retail concept located in the basement of a well loved Japanese restaurant, Life just last month. Set up by three creative friends in Tatsuo, Pippa and Peter. Both the physical and digital spaces showcase the trios unique ideas, collaborations and exclusive products which have been developed in association with the craftsmen and talent that they all adore. This is a truly independent project driven forward by the determination to offer something different. 3939 incorporates a unique point of view and leaves me excited in the process. Having provided me with a wealth of present options for my nearest and dearest, I just had to find out what was on Tatsuo Hino's Christmas list and here it is...

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ELEPHANT RING BY DOG STATE

The item is the 'Elephant Ring' by Dog State . I have actually ordered to have it resized for me when I am back from Japan early next year. It is made by my friend, Toshi, who is based in London and trained at the Great Frog for eight years as residential shop keeper and designer. What I like about it is that the detailing about the face is so intricate. I cannot wait to wear this!

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LEWIS D LTD 204A FLYING BOOTS

My ideal Christmas gift would be the Lewis D Ltd Flying boots with shearing inside. I recently tried a pair on at the Lewis Leathers store. They were reintroduced the boots back into the range after carefully researching them right down the to the correct buckles of the original pair from the 30s. The shearling lining is sourced from a Tannery in the West Country, the leather nowadays is a high grade Cowhide for durability during everyday wear, soles are leather and the heels are rubber with a pattern identical to those found on many vintage RAF flying boots. They are a classic with heritage, sleek but modern and functional boot commanding a reasonable price (£350) for what they are.

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Advent - Day Eight

We have long admired the snapshots of style that Tommy Ton captures for his own site Jak & Jil and those for GQ. Tommy's images are at times breathtaking and frequently more inspiring than the happenings of any catwalk. His roving eye scans and focuses on the details that are often overlooked but are in fact so very important. Tommy can zoom in on a contrasting cuff, tailoring quirk, novel print combination and sartorial scenes from one hundred paces. He undoudtedly has the eye. With this in mind we just had to ask him to reveal the one item he hopes to unwrap this year and he plumped for a beautiful pair of Northampton crafted boots...

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TRICKER"S MALTON BROGUE BOOTS

Tricker's Malton Brogue boots with a Commando sole

"For Christmas, I'd love to receive a pair of Tricker's Malton Brogue boots with a Commando sole. It's funny how long I've wanted a pair but yet I haven't had any time while visiting London to go to the Tricker's shop. My time is always occupied by fashion week and rather than ordering a pair online, I'd like to properly get fitted and fully experience the Tricker's experience. Ideally, I'd love to customize a pair but I also really love the Vibram wedge sole on the pairs they collaborate with Present London. Brogue boots are a classic staple in my wardrobe and to receive a pair would be the ultimate Christmas gift."

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Advent - Day Seven

After unearthing Kapok earlier this year, it soon became one of my favourite retail discoveries. The stock always presents a well curated selection of European and Asian brands and includes a mouth watering array of my favourite labels while introducing me to a few new ones with each visit. With Kapok, Arnault Castel's objective is to showcase brands that combine creativity and craftsmanship. This small but perfectly formed store is an arbiter of good taste and temptation surrounds you the moment you step through its doors. With this in mind, we just had to ask Castel what he'd like to find under his Christmas tree this year. "As I am quite greedy, I would like to chose two items. One that I need and one that I am quite obsessed about..."

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FOLDING DUTCH BICYCLE

"First, my family is moving to a smaller village in the French countryside so I would need a bicycle to get around. I am looking for a folding bicycle so I can bring it to the beach house in the summer.

I'm not feeling a too "beautiful" design or heritage bicycle, but rather fancy a very simple, practical one. This dutch bicycle seems to be quite perfect"

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BLACK CHRONOGRAPH WATCH FROM UNIFORM WARES

"The second item is something I absolutely don't need but can't stop thinking about. I have loved the Uniform Wares ranges since their first release, for their absolute simplicity. Their latest version, the chronograph in black needs to be on my wrist very soon (preferably around christmas )! I have never been a watch addict, but now I can understand why people can get crazy about watches"

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Advent - Day Twenty Two

The introduction of Trunk Clothier's to Marylebone's Chiltern Street has been one of the real highlights of the year. Trunk's model is simple; to stock great Italian, Japanese, Swedish and American brands that already have a strong following among London residents, but frustratingly for them could only be found abroad. Formally a senior manager in global partnerships at American Express, Klingberg has fused his background in fashion, retail and financial services to engage with brands that are united in their passion for quality and detail. The facet that makes Trunk unlike any other store, has been his ability in convincing smaller brands, such as Stealth Wealth of Kyoto and Bogliolo, to take a risk overseas. Klinsberg noticed a clear gap in the market and has thankfully taken advantage. The store affords discoveries at every turn. Here's what's on his Christmas list.

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TRUNK BY PORTER BOSTON BAG

"I'd love to find one of our own Trunk by Porter bags under the Christmas tree this year. Preferably the olive Boston Bag to match the Tote that I already have. Porter started manufacturing highly durable bags for carrying rubble for Japanese building sites many years ago. Their modern bags reflect this heritage with an emphasis on durability, understatement and functionality."

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Gifts for me, myself and I

Earlier this year I waxed lyrical about my retail crush on Hong Kong's institution of a specialty store, Lane Crawford. After a number of longing glances from across the ocean, this blossoming long distance affair took a surprising turn with the age of my new love coming to light. This season, Lane Crawford is remarkably one hundred and sixty years old. Founded in 1850 by Thomas Ash Lane and Ninian Crawford, it has evolved to become a leading luxury specialty store offering a wide selection of mouth watering brands. Celebrating its one hundred and sixtieth anniversary, Lane Crawford proudly launched Heritage 160 for AW10. To honour the rich history and unique past of the store, as well as its strong relationships with top brands, designers and talents from around the world, Heritage 160 featured a series of programmes and events throughout the season. The celebrations culminated last Thursday with with a ceremony and a launch event at its mind blowing flagship store at IFC mall. It was a celebration to remember and thank the many generations of families who have worked and shopped with Lane Crawford, and ultimately woven the fabric that has built 160 years of traditions and community in Hong Kong. Thankfully, I was invited out to join the celebrations.

The theme for the day was Play and play we most certainly did. The flagship space was transformed in to a dream like arcade park. Guests and celebrities alike all lined up to play favourite games, including ping pong, air hockey, car racing, pool and testing their skill at the claw machine. I tried my luck on the air hockey and ping pong tables. I came up short with a racket in my hand but Susie delivered the goods with her vicious puck bashing. Now, I rarely win anything. Having grown up losing pound after pound in the slot machines that preyed on the young and the bored of Margate it felt good to win and win big. My prize came in a special blue box...

That special blue box that so many crave.

Now, if I did win anything in my previous life the winnings would normally still leave me short on what I ploughed in to the machine. Here however my luck changed for the better. A pair of embroidery adorned Lanvin cufflinks were found inside. I'm undecided whether they are a pair of skulls or monkeys but either way, I love them dearly and thank Lane Crawford (included eagle eyed accessories buyer Marco Lau) greatly.

A closer look of the cufflinks inside.

Having raised our glasses and partied with this Hong Kong institution our appetite for gifts was undoubtedly whet. The following morning (with a pair of slightly sore heads) we returned to the IFC store to explore the space in its returned state. After admiring the brand packed menswear floor (highlights include Nigel Cabourn, Kolor, Junya Watanabe, AI and the Cambridge Satchel Company to name but a few) we headed to the shoe department. It was here that I fell head of hi top heel for a pair of Lanvin's. Top of my footwear lust list has always been a pair of Lanvin hi tops.

My latest shoe obsession.

Now, you might recall that when I hit the quarter of a century mark, Susie knew me all too well and bought me the best present ever. Fast forward a couple of years and Susie saw that my eyes had lit up by a wool and leather combination for AW10. Having had the fires of gifting ignited within by the Lane Crawford party, she opted to treat me to a pair of these flocked grey, navy and maroon weave hi tops. Amazing. An early Christmas gift. I have been spoiled rotten and it feels good. Let's take a closer look at this pair of pulse racing, texture rich trainers...

A texture rich close up.

And another. Oh, I'm in love.

Later that day, we ventured to another retail favourite of this bustling city, Kapok. This small but perfectly formed store is an arbiter of good taste. With each visit there is temptation everywhere within its four walls. After recently featuring the latest offering from local accessories label Seventy Eight Per Cent I could not resist taking a closer. This closer look then led to a purchase of the real highlights of the new Harrison Fold collection, the Gustav. Having been treated by Lane Crawford and then by Susie, it was only fitting for me to treat myself, right......right?

As Shai Levy conceded in our recent interview, Harrison Fold was an interesting collection to design in several aspects. Firstly, it was a collaboration between himself and Harold Poon, a young talented designer who joined Seventy Eight Percent after graduating design school in Australia. Secondly, it had to meet the high expectations following the success of the Back To Old School Collection but at the same time be different. The inspiration initially came from waterproof outdoor bags that have roll top closures (hence the Fold in the title), and was influenced by Indiana Jones' shoulder bag.

Gustav itself is a designer Messenger Bag, designed to carry your belongings in comfort and style. It is spacious and well organized with pockets to stash my everyday essentials. The bags are engineered to fulfill people’s practical needs and are built to last. The Japanese wax coated canvas and Italian vegetable tanned leather are designed to age gracefully (far more so than this blogger). It makes for a fine present for myself.

One utterly spoiled me. Gustav messenger by Seventy Eight Percent and hi tops from Lanvin worn with black trousers from Tim Soar and a crombie coat from ASOS Black. 

Happy birthday Lane Crawford and thank you for igniting the flames of this gifting frenzy. Now, having been spoiled, I better make a start on my Christmas shopping.

Advent - Day Six

Daniel Jenkins has been running a menswear store solely based on young British menswear for over three years now. As a retailer, Jenkins has a clear vision on menswear and the designers he wants to sell which is why we chose him to take part in our advent calendar (and why we like to hang out with him and talk fashion). With Christmas Day fast approaching, Jenkins dreams up the ultimate way to reward his four legged friend...

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Daniel Jenkins' whippet Hector out enjoying the snow.

"I would love Lucien Freud to paint my whippet Hector, which would be wrapped up with brown paper and tied with Carolyn Massey all black Kumihimo style dog leads for my spaniels.

Thinking about it. All I really want under the tree this year is for those that I love to be happy and healthy."

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Introducing (ki:ts)

At this time of year it is difficult to resist the temptation to take a step back and assess the moments that have materialised over the last twelve months. With this in mind, a year in menswear summary will certainly be posted before we wave goodbye to 2010 but there are still a few moments to experience, labels to discover and collections to covet before. However, I can hint that our review will include my thoughts on a revived retail scene in London and indeed beyond. I have visited a myriad of newly opened stores in recent months and my faith in the future of menswear retail has been restored. During two of these visits a certain accessories brand has caught my eye. Up till now I have merely hinted at my admiration for (ki:ts). No longer. Trunk Clothiers first brought the label to my attention and and then 3939 duly reminded me of the fine leather accessory range. This weekend I met up with the man behind the label, Takaharu Osako to be talked through the current offering.

A look inside Trunk...
Woven belt by Ki:ts, boots by Common Projects, bag by BAG'n'NOUN and scarves by Drakes.

After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2003, Osako learnt his trade at Alexander McQueen before taking a design position at Jas MB. Last year, driven my his passion for handmade craft, he set up his own clothing and accessories brand. Taking its name from the dictionary pronunciation of the great English Romantic poet John Keats and Osako's desire to kit out the modern gentleman, (ki:ts) was formed. The label is an all too tempting cocktail of old, authentic elements mixed with modern technology and the pursuits of modern life. The accessory range takes its inspiration from the materials and craft which help create each accessory. These beautiful leather accessories are hand finished one-by-one in order not to ruin the natural feeling of the leather. Each season Osako makes up to one hundred and fifty belts and bracelets. The variety of fine Italian leathers are teamed up with sundries and buckles inspired from British horse riding and falconry detailing...

The Ki:ts range in 3939

Retrowood buckle bracelet.

Double Small Buckle Leather belt.

A close up of beautiful leather.

Black leather belt.

Surprisingly, the label is currently only Osako's fruitful hobby. He still works as an assistant designer at Jas MB by day and then dedicates his spare time to create each carefully crafted (ki:ts) product. The range itself, in addition to the stockists who buy in to the label slowly grows each season and this is how he wants it to remain. It was a pleasure to see his passion first hand, it was contagious and I could not walk away empty handed. During our discussion, the designer noticed that I was particularly taken by the retrowood versions. Up till then I had never seen such a leather in person. Amazingly, at the end of the range run through he gifted me with a bracelet version...

The wood effect bracelet in front of my Christmas tree.

Just look at the detailing...

I could not resist buying a belt for myself and opted for the stunning double buckle belt. I can't remember seeing anything quite like this before and I certainly do not own anything similar so it is a welcome addition to my accessory options.

The double buckle belt.

A closer look at the double buckle.

Osaka sources vintage fixtures for many of his belts.

I find it nigh on impossible to resist the charms of a label such as (ki:ts) and why should I? Takaharu Osako dedicates his evenings and free time to create each accessory by hand. Each accessory is carefully cut, shaped and polished and driven by his passion for fine leather craftsmanship. I'm looking forward to watching this label continue to slowly and organically grow over the coming seasons and beyond.