Casely-Hayford SS11: The Light Through the Darkness

Much of the last twelve months have whizzed right by me, a great deal has been forgotten for one reason or another. There have, however, been a few moments which have seen the dazzlingly fast rotating clock hands stop completely, allowing me ample opportunity to soak up the scene before me. Thankfully time was stopped during my visit to the SS11 Showroom Next Door and my heart still skips a beat or two as memories of Casely-Hayford's The Light Through the Darkness fills my memory. Having enthused over the collection back in September, it is my absolute pleasure to offer first sight of the look book with you...

Cover image; Circeo washed shirt jacket in deep red cotton, Azuil collarless shirt in white Panama cotton, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey.

Casely-Hayford's fifth collection consolidates their now signature style of relaxed masculine proportions, fused with an injection of London's cocktail of youth culture. Since its inception, the label has explored the intriguing duality of English sartorialism and British anarchy but now shapes a unique aesthetic that sees the emergence of the 'Sartorial Nomad' from the shadows of the darkened sensibility of their Afro Punk of the season before. Here, Casely-Hayford visit the the idea of the transcultural traveler, whose identity is an amalgamation of the many countries and influences that once or now surround him.

Looking at this collection, I'm reminded of the photography of Etienne Dehau. In his book about the Bedouin tribes and nomadic peoples of Arabia, the photographer took us to the heart of this immense region, tracking the ancient incense route and the nomadic Bedouins. Dehau's wonderful photographs illustrated the culture of these Arabs – a word that originally meant ‘people of the desert’ – as they move from camp to camp within a land that is both hostile and overwhelming. For SS11, Casely-Hayford have reimagined the nomad. The taletend design duo turn to the purity and tranquil energy of the Bedouin nomad in order to seek out something real and something minimal negating the excess so prevalent during the last decade. The Light Through the Darkness communicates ideas of a rebirth for a new decade. There is a discordant synergy is brought to the forefront of the collection as exquisite tailoring is worn over nomadic white shirts, referencing looks often seen in the confluence of London's East End. Here, the cut is unrestrictive and loose yet it still manages to remain masculine and athletic. Fabrics are natural, colours earthy and the silhouette voluminous but minimal...

Left; Moonstone jacket in grey tarmac wool, Lapis pale grey herringbone drawstring jacket, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey, Brett olive jersey l/s t shirt and Turbeville allotment creeper. 

Right; Luxor stone cotton workwear jacket with turned black hem and Cinnabar navy ribbed cotton fatigue pants.

 

Left; Volga gathered coat in greige wool,  Azul white Panama cotton collarless shirt, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Turbeville allotment creeper. 

Right; Circeo washed shirt jacket in grey/check reverse cotton, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Aldous 2SB, greige wool jacket, Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt. Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey and Isherwood brown leather sandals. 

Right; Marmor marine cotton knit cardigan with Touareg pattern front, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Arandis grey ribbed cotton waistcoat, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Right; Tropf bi-colour minimal Mac, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy/black cotton,  Afyon scoop neck stone crushed jersey t-shirt, Cinnabar stone ribbed cotton fatigue pants.

Right; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Anatol white cotton Chino, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy in khaki cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Right; Belvoir navy canvas reversible coat, Agra bellows pocket waistcoat in navy organic cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Left; Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Right; Aldous 2SB greige wool jacket, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Basalto flat front trouser in greige wool and Bentley brown leather quilted slipper. 

Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Look book credits
Photography: Katinka Herbert
Photography assistant: Christopher Kennedy
Art direction: Casely-Hayford & Son
Model: Yussef Yu, Fine Artist.

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Hentsch Man AW10

Hentsch Man Aw10

Back in May last year we discovered a new menswear brand whose design ethos and approach to retail struck a chord with us. We have been following the continued rise of Hentsch Man ever since. The brand evolved from a seemingly simple search (in theory not practice) for the perfect white shirt. The two friends (Max and Alexia) set about designing their perfect shirt and when they felt they got it right, they placed a small order. After the shirts were soon snapped up by friends and family, the duo set about expanding their offering without compromising their core values of simplicity and function. Over the last year, we have watched with interest as the pair have added trousers, boxer shorts, footwear and luggage to create a more complete menswear collection. Earlier this week I was lucky enough to be talked through the AW10 collection by Alexia and there are quite a few exciting additions to share with you. Over the course of this post I will attempt to offer you the same journey I was fortunate enough to take supported by quotes from the lady herself and an exclusive look at their AW10 look book...

As in every collection, they have the original Jack shirt. This is Alexia's "own personal favourite, probably because it was the first piece we designed. Due to their cut I just think they make guys look really good." They've added three new shirts which have really added a new dimension to the collection, in Benny, denim and Sunday. The Sunday shirt is a button down and the cut is a little square making it a more causal shirt choice. In previous seasons they've received some feedback that their other shirts are too elegant in a way, so they wanted to have a few more relaxed offerings. In addition to the Sunday, they have added a denim shirt which comes in two washes, the washed is super soft and the other is influenced by work wear. Finally, they have added a flannel shirt, which again is more of a casual weekend shirt based on a casual workman's shirt. The looser fit and double pockets make it ideal for a dressed down look. The new shirts have certainly added a more relaxed dimension to the collection.

The collection for AW10 has really grown with this season and in addition to the new shirts, they have added sweaters and jackets. Firstly, there is the Simon striped sweaters and cardigans which are all produced in Scotland and come in three gorgeous striped colourways. There is another new sweater addition to the line which is a hand made, heavy knit that can have a customised pattern added to it. Alexia enthusiastically confessed that this piece has worked extremely well with their buyers in the States who have integrated the logo of their stores in to the knit.

As for the jackets, Alexia was inspired by Wes Anderson's Fantastic Mr Fox and his breathtaking double breasted corduroy jacket. Mr Fox's ensemble of a tight-fitting corduroy suit was based on fabric from one of the dandyish forty year olds own suits and it certainly captured the sartorial imagination of quite a few of us. Mr Fox's suit is made of orange/brown-ish corduroy and this really inspired Alexia Hentsch. It came as no surprise to see that its hero sports a natty double-breasted version of Anderson's own beloved suit, (as captured by the Sartorialist on at least one occasion) tastefully accessorised with a few ears of wheat in the breast pocket. The whole look is akin the colour of a leaf in autumn, in fact Anderson and his team wanted the whole film to look like Autumn. It is little wonder then that this film's style resonates so strongly, as you all know, I am obsessed by the colours of the season and dressing accordingly. Hentsch Man have been making their Joe trousers in corduroy for a couple of seasons now in navy, coral, ochre, aubergine and sky blue. Alexia casually remarked that "AW10 felt the right time to make two piece corduroy suits" and it is difficult to disagree, I'd love to wear one. Their cords come in bright hues and there is something quite exciting and fun about seeing a corduroy suit in coral and sky blue. A mustard suit might be too much for some, certainly not for me but you could always wear them as separates. If these eye poppingly colourful jackets and trousers are still too much,the corduroy offering has been extended in to ties. I've not encountered a cord tie before and I just love the subtle texture of them, I could not stop stroking them. Finally on the jacket front, Hentsch Man have added a couple of safer options, one of which is a beautiful tweed jacket that has the same slim cut silhouette.

"The Autumn/winter season tends to be so drab, everything is grey and blue but we wanted one or two items that just bring a smile to your face. Since the beginning we have experimented with colour and been surprised by the reaction. The very first pair of trousers we did a few seasons ago now came in just a few colours; navy, bright red and pistachio green. We made so many of the navy ones because we thought they'd be the ones to sell but in reality it was the pistachio and red ones which just flew off of the shelves. I think it is because everybody has navy trousers but our customers tend to be the ones who are inclined to push it that bit more." - Alexia Hentsch

The role of colour in a man's wardrobe, particularly during the colder months is an interesting one. I feel that with the help of a certain Japanese high street retailer attitudes have shifted. As mentioned in previous posts, I have injected a much needed shot of colour in to my wardrobe's jugular in recent months. I have mentioned the 'Uniqlo effect' at least twice before on the blog and the Japanese retailing power house is still having an effect on the colours hanging on my wardrobe rail and I've had a a great deal of fun experimenting with the various hues. Walk in to any Uniqlo store and you are instantly hit with an almost overwhelming number of colour variations and it has certainly had an effect on most male attitudes to colour. These colour variations confuse the mind initially but ultimately inspire. The available colour ranges have helped seduce me and many other men away from more muted tones. It is great to see brands such as Hentsch Man offer a similarly colourful but extremely well made and lasting alternative. Due to my recent colour experimentation I've discovered that there are a number of colours that actually suit my natural colouring and tones. Colours that I would have previously steered well clear of now grace my back and wrap around my neck. Even if some colours don't work together, it is fun trying.

Having first heard about the label watched the development of the label ever since I first discovered it via Monocle, it is great to see the labels naturally evolved collection of pieces with each new season. It takes seasons to grow and it refreshing to see that Hentsch Man have not forced anything. What began as a shirt company where they investigated different fabrics and cuts to design the ultimate line of shirts has slowly but surely developed. The next logical step was to add trousers and then they've grown from there, systematically adding new products. It is now only one or two pieces away from a complete collection and I for one am chomping at the bit to see what Alexia and Max have in store for SS10. In the meantime though, I am going to daydream about wearing a sky blue corduroy suit...

A near complete, colourful collection for Aw10

Albam AW10

We might not have reached mid August yet but my sweaty, aching limbs are longing to be protected by soft, texture rich fabrics as the hot, stagnant air is replaced with something a little more fresh and biting. During the press day madness back in April I encountered a dream rail of autumnal essentials at Cube. For AW10, Albam have gone back to their starting principle of creating the essential items within a man’s wardrobe, from the classic white t-shirt, through to the Italian made suit and an English crafted Pea Coat and from August to December, each month will see a capsule collection dropped into store. The first of which is imminent and to provoke a little excitement the guys posted the first batch of look book images over on their 'Behind the Scenes' blog.

Shawl collar knit. A perennial brand favourite

Knitwear is produced by a factory for which this AW10 collection will sadly be the last collection they make. The focus is on pieces inspired by the factory’s archive which counts the 1980’s America’s cup yacht team, the military and the Royal family as customers. Styles include the ‘Submariner’ roll neck and the shawl collar cardigan (a perennial favourite of Albam).

Each piece, when released, will be a numbered piece of one hundred produced.

Artisan waistcoat and chambray shirt.

The Albam signature of white details has been revisited to make them more integral to the garment itself. Highlights of this are seen in the linking of the knitwear in ecru yarn, only visible when the garment is opened up. This can also be seen in the taped seam garments creating an internal framework to the pieces.

Artisan pea coat.

Outerwear has become a focus of Albam since the release of the Fisherman’s Cagoule in 2007. Key pieces include the Workwear Jacket in a bonded cotton weave with polar fleece on the inside, which gives a more structured garment whilst being light and warm. Wax fabric also remains key with a workwear style that is crafted from wax cloth as a lightweight casual rain jacket and a Pea Coat, made from an oiled duck canvas from the USA.

Trail parka

The key pieces that embody the ‘Modern Crafted Clothing’ concept are the taped Ventile styles of the Alpine Jacket and Rain Mac. Designed and crafted in England these are waterproof garments, which combine Albam’s love of the outdoors with the forgotten expertise of one of the factories used.

Ventile mac and backpack.

This is just a handful of the styles that are coming through this winter at Albam. Throughout the ‘Essentials’ the styles remain cleanly designed with a focus on fabrication and construction. A number of the developments have arisen following discussions with customers about what they are wanting and where they themselves want to go with things. I love how the guys have remained true to their founding concept, slowly developing and growing their range all the while letting the right customers find them. I'm looking in stocking up on a few new season essentials.

Press Day Highlights: Raf Simons AW10

A fine wardrobe indeed, Raf Simons Aw10.

The last two days have seen me enthusiastically buzz around town armed with my camera and Postalco document holder as I fly from press day to press day. This sartorial pollination has been fruitful not only for me but also for the still grounded Susie (but not for much longer thankfully) who has instructed me to snap away feverishly at the pick of womenswear. In between stroking Proenza Schouler's PS1 bags and thumbing Christopher Kane's racks of floral leathers and lace, I was afforded the opportunity to marvel at Raf Simons Aw10 collection. It has been the highlight of a hectic couple of days...

A trench but not as you know it...the bolero.

Since his earliest days in fashion, Raf Simons has set out to bring youthful dynamism to tailoring and for AW10 he did just that. After a couple of seasons of mixed response, a real sense of excitement ensued his January show and deservedly so. “Now we see the real modern Raf Simons man, someone interested in tradition but also high fashion,” he said. The collection was undeniably a successful balance of fashion and traditional tailoring. Classic yet a leap in to the future. The tailoring was fastened with either metallic snaps or were affixed with fuzzy strips of velcro. There were abstract punches of colour atop jackets and deconstructed trenches, polo necks running to the knee and wrap around skirts. I have been pouring over the show images ever since they came online with a heart full of admiration but a head not quite able to fathom a few of the pieces. As much as I love the theatre of fashion shows I always long to touch and inspect the pieces and I was fortunate enough to grasp my opportunity.

A trench but not as you know it...the bustier and skirt.

"The idea of fragmentation was really important in this collection – psychologically for the Raf Simons man, and literally in the garments.' Raf Simons over on Another

Several of the garments were physically fragmented but this was hard to fully understand based purely upon catwalk shots. The fragmentation ultimately meant they could be worn as whole, traditional pieces or as individual parts of one piece. For example, the trench (above and below) was divided into three parts, a bolero, a bustier and a skirt. I took great pleasure in examining each fragment before putting them together again. I just love how the wearer has a fair bit of freedom to interpret and interact with the garment to find themselves in all or any of these combinations.

The use of advanced materials and Velcro fastening certainly added a futuristic edge.

Simons wanted to further redefine the tradition of classic tailoring through his fabric choices. Velcro and press buttons gave another dynamic to the tailoring and suiting. Velcro side tabs enabled classic suits to be gathered at the waist to create an altogether different silhouette. Velcro tabs were also applied longitudinally (as per the trousers below) so the fabric can be folded neatly on to itself and held in place to create a myriad of fits.

The master of minimalism certainly took us to his vision of the future, today. These looks demonstrate Simons' school boy look of old has aged quite exquisitely in to tailored manhood...

Gifts for me, myself and I

Earlier this year I waxed lyrical about my retail crush on Hong Kong's institution of a specialty store, Lane Crawford. After a number of longing glances from across the ocean, this blossoming long distance affair took a surprising turn with the age of my new love coming to light. This season, Lane Crawford is remarkably one hundred and sixty years old. Founded in 1850 by Thomas Ash Lane and Ninian Crawford, it has evolved to become a leading luxury specialty store offering a wide selection of mouth watering brands. Celebrating its one hundred and sixtieth anniversary, Lane Crawford proudly launched Heritage 160 for AW10. To honour the rich history and unique past of the store, as well as its strong relationships with top brands, designers and talents from around the world, Heritage 160 featured a series of programmes and events throughout the season. The celebrations culminated last Thursday with with a ceremony and a launch event at its mind blowing flagship store at IFC mall. It was a celebration to remember and thank the many generations of families who have worked and shopped with Lane Crawford, and ultimately woven the fabric that has built 160 years of traditions and community in Hong Kong. Thankfully, I was invited out to join the celebrations.

The theme for the day was Play and play we most certainly did. The flagship space was transformed in to a dream like arcade park. Guests and celebrities alike all lined up to play favourite games, including ping pong, air hockey, car racing, pool and testing their skill at the claw machine. I tried my luck on the air hockey and ping pong tables. I came up short with a racket in my hand but Susie delivered the goods with her vicious puck bashing. Now, I rarely win anything. Having grown up losing pound after pound in the slot machines that preyed on the young and the bored of Margate it felt good to win and win big. My prize came in a special blue box...

That special blue box that so many crave.

Now, if I did win anything in my previous life the winnings would normally still leave me short on what I ploughed in to the machine. Here however my luck changed for the better. A pair of embroidery adorned Lanvin cufflinks were found inside. I'm undecided whether they are a pair of skulls or monkeys but either way, I love them dearly and thank Lane Crawford (included eagle eyed accessories buyer Marco Lau) greatly.

A closer look of the cufflinks inside.

Having raised our glasses and partied with this Hong Kong institution our appetite for gifts was undoubtedly whet. The following morning (with a pair of slightly sore heads) we returned to the IFC store to explore the space in its returned state. After admiring the brand packed menswear floor (highlights include Nigel Cabourn, Kolor, Junya Watanabe, AI and the Cambridge Satchel Company to name but a few) we headed to the shoe department. It was here that I fell head of hi top heel for a pair of Lanvin's. Top of my footwear lust list has always been a pair of Lanvin hi tops.

My latest shoe obsession.

Now, you might recall that when I hit the quarter of a century mark, Susie knew me all too well and bought me the best present ever. Fast forward a couple of years and Susie saw that my eyes had lit up by a wool and leather combination for AW10. Having had the fires of gifting ignited within by the Lane Crawford party, she opted to treat me to a pair of these flocked grey, navy and maroon weave hi tops. Amazing. An early Christmas gift. I have been spoiled rotten and it feels good. Let's take a closer look at this pair of pulse racing, texture rich trainers...

A texture rich close up.

And another. Oh, I'm in love.

Later that day, we ventured to another retail favourite of this bustling city, Kapok. This small but perfectly formed store is an arbiter of good taste. With each visit there is temptation everywhere within its four walls. After recently featuring the latest offering from local accessories label Seventy Eight Per Cent I could not resist taking a closer. This closer look then led to a purchase of the real highlights of the new Harrison Fold collection, the Gustav. Having been treated by Lane Crawford and then by Susie, it was only fitting for me to treat myself, right......right?

As Shai Levy conceded in our recent interview, Harrison Fold was an interesting collection to design in several aspects. Firstly, it was a collaboration between himself and Harold Poon, a young talented designer who joined Seventy Eight Percent after graduating design school in Australia. Secondly, it had to meet the high expectations following the success of the Back To Old School Collection but at the same time be different. The inspiration initially came from waterproof outdoor bags that have roll top closures (hence the Fold in the title), and was influenced by Indiana Jones' shoulder bag.

Gustav itself is a designer Messenger Bag, designed to carry your belongings in comfort and style. It is spacious and well organized with pockets to stash my everyday essentials. The bags are engineered to fulfill people’s practical needs and are built to last. The Japanese wax coated canvas and Italian vegetable tanned leather are designed to age gracefully (far more so than this blogger). It makes for a fine present for myself.

One utterly spoiled me. Gustav messenger by Seventy Eight Percent and hi tops from Lanvin worn with black trousers from Tim Soar and a crombie coat from ASOS Black. 

Happy birthday Lane Crawford and thank you for igniting the flames of this gifting frenzy. Now, having been spoiled, I better make a start on my Christmas shopping.

Rediscovering Kenzo for AW10

Kenzo AW10, the scene outside the show in Paris.

The first round of press days (more to come later this week and next) saw me zig zag my way across the capital and as well as giving my Kudu brogued boots yet another beating the day was full of AW10 recaps and interesting discoveries (which all will be revealed over the course of the next week or two). As soon as Pitti Uomo opened the 2010 fashion agenda back in mid January, the shows came thick and fast and it all became a little too much for even this dedicated follower of fashion and style hungry blogger. During Fashion Month it is quite easy to let an amazing collection slip right by your tired eyes and wanting fingertips. One such missed sartorial treat was Kenzo...

Since his appointment in 2003, Antonio Marras has developed collections naturally akin to the Kenzo spirit, creating a rich, poetic world from a diversity of influences: a fusion of fashion and art. Kenzo has always been a label with distinct personality, primarily the mixing of different cultures. Given full artistic direction on all aspects of the brand, adding childrenswear, homeware, accessories and menswear to his previous output, Marras has firmly taken hold of Kenzo and molded it in his own vision. His personality and talent have infused a new vitality into this much loved but (in my case atleast) often overlooked brand. Brands such as this have to offer a vision, a universe, and a signature and Marras has delivered once again with this collection...

For Aw10, Marras focused the AW10 collection around fabrics and prints as he looked fondly back at generations gone by. Tweed, houndstooth, muted plaid, floral and leopard prints all came together quite wonderfully to create. a texture rich offering that appealed to my mix and match sensibility. There's a great deal of emphasis on decorative layering and the the dusty, muted colour pallet added a certain intellectual feel to the offering. I just lapped it all up and it left me scratching my head as to how I over looked it all during my catwalk stalking of Paris. As I rummaged through the texture filled racks I began to grumble that the days were getting longer and confessed that I was beginning to miss those damp, grey skies because these designs inspired me to perfect the art of Autumn layering.

The AW10 Kenzo mood board courtesy of Another.

Since I discovering the collection I just had to research it that bit more and where better to look than Another? I really enjoyed their First Look series of entries before, during and soon after fashion month. The glimpses at some of my favourite labels mood boards and reading about their inspirations, wants and desires really helped see the collections in a new, brighter and altogether more agreeable light. Now that I've found it, Kenzo's entry is one of my favourites....

"For this collection I wanted to create a mix between the French look of Monsieur Hulot, a character created and played by filmmaker Jaques Tati, and the British film Quadrophenia" Antonio Marras speaking to Another.

Backstage show images courtesy of Dazed Digital.

For Marras, the Jacques Tati creation of Monsieur Hulot has such a unique body language and silhouette. The character would wear his raincoat over his slightly too short trousers. His props of hat, pipe and umbrella combined to exaggerate his famous lurching walk. "It's his unconscious anarchy that fascinates me; his eccentricity; his joy and his freedom, which makes him whistle in the street" remarks Marras.

Backstage show image courtesy of Dazed Digital.

The proportions in the collection were exaggerated to accentuate the playful nature of his way of dressing: large, short trousers that show off marching socks, with slightly too tight jackets and short-sleeved shirts which reveal printed gloves. It was Marras' way of twisting the codes of elegance. Style is also about attitude and Quadrophenia inspired the dark side of the collection, giving it a more aggressive look. It added a rebel touch to a classical wardrobe.

Backstage show images courtesy of Dazed Digital.

Kenzo has had strong values and a certain sense of heritage ever since it was set up by Kenzo Takada in 1970. Now it is Marras' turn with the house and he is undoubtedly taking it forward. It won't be overlooked by me next season in Paris...in fact, I'm already looking forward to the show.

Forgotten Fit

Forgotten Future

Last month I encountered the designs of Forgotten Future twice in as many hours. Initially by the unveiling of the label over on oki-ni, quickly followed by an encounter with the creative mind behind the label, Richard Dawson at Stitch. This two fold introduction allowed me to fully acquaint myself with the label and by lunchtime I was a fan, a post soon followed. A few weeks later and a package arrived in my mail box containing a pair of high waisted corduroy trousers in burgundy. Dawson was so pleased with my post and the fact that I instantly understood the label that he sent me one of the highlights from his AW10 collection as a huge thank you. I have to confess that gifts always make me feel a little uneasy because they are wholly unnecessary. I only write about the brands that I truly love, there is no agenda. That said, on the odd occasions that I do receive a gift from one of those love brands, the item will be cherished and these cords are no exception...

A closer look at the front detailing.

Forgotten Future's sophomore collection was influenced by an eclectic mix of inspirations, from Eton schoolboys to No Wave to Constructivism. These seemingly disparate influences combine wonderfully to create a collection that expresses the kind of sartorial nonchalance which I aspire to demonstrate in my own attire during the cooler months. Along with a high degree of workmanship, silhouette and proportional experimentation are both key to Forgotten Future's aesthetic. These burgundy cords wonderfully encapsulate all that is exciting about the label. Now, these are the first pair of high waisted trousers I have worn for as long as I can remember. Despite admiring pairs from the likes of bstore and Tim Soar in recent seasons I have chose to sit this style out. I doubted whether or not my medium frame could really pull them off with any level of success. I could hide no longer with this beautiful pair hanging in my wardrobe. Below are the results of my first, of undoubtedly many high waisted experiment...

The Forgotten Future cord trousers worn with +J Collection chambray shirt from Uniqlo and Kudu boots by Lodger.

A close up...I love the pleated front detailing and the dominant use of zips.

A close up of the Kudu boots on one of their first outings for a few months.

Thanks to Forgotten Future I am no longer afraid of high waisted trousers. I am most pleased with this first experiment and am looking forward to experimenting with them over the coming months as we welcome in the new season. Roll on autumn...

Advent - Day Five

Apologies for the delay in revealing what's behind door number five on our advent calendar of commercial desires. However, today's treat comes from a true menswear personality, Glenn Kitson. Kitson is a figure that has seen it all. His current CV details his successful contributions to the likes of 6876 , Penfield and oi polloi while producing his own fabulous publication The Rig Out. With the cold weather well and truly upon us, Kitson looks to an amazing piece of outerwear for protection...

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RALPH LAUREN COAT

Mandator Lined Utility Jacket from Black Label Ralph Lauren...
...so, Glenn actually selected a different coat but I couldn't find it anywhere. Sorry all!

"I'm actually quite lucky and tend to be given a lot of stuff and If I really want something I buy it. If we're talking clothes (which we obviously are..) then at Xmas it would have to be an amazing piece of outerwear. There's a lovely Ralph Lauren duck canvas barn coat/chore jacket in Liberty's at the moment, its £800 and a bit out of my price range right now, that would be quite nice"

*Looks up to the Christmas gods in heaven*.

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