A first look at Fred Perry AW10

Fred Perry's AW10 Look Book.

Another round of AW10 collections to slap in my tired face to snap me back in to a state of sartorial alertness was Fred Perry. Having only just celebrated its one hundredth birthday last year, this is an iconic brand that is far from resting on its laurels (pun intended, ha!). The brand continues to retain and develop its unique roots in the British history of street fashion and music. Its products have consistently been adopted as part of the uniform of choice for elements of our subculture. From Mods, Suedeheads, Ska/Two Tone, Punk, New Wave, Casuals/Perry Boys, Britpop, Electronic/Rave and the latest Indie revival - the Laurel has been ever present. Passed from generation as an understated timeless and collectible true classic. The press day gave me the opportunity to investigate the AW10 Laurel collection and the chance to sneak a peak at the next stage of the successful collaborations with Raf Simons and Stussy. First up, I thought I'd share the first look at the Laurel look book...

These two images showcase my favourite looks. Such simple layering but oh so effective. Left; Long sleeve indigo shirt. Right; Long sleeve indigo shirt worn with knitted blazer and pleated trousers.

I have been a fan of the Laurel Wreath collection for some time now because not only does it showcase the purity of the more heritage pieces but also offers a more contemporary look and feel based on authentic values. Below are a few of my favourite looks...

Long sleeve multi button collar shirt.

Long sleeve striped print shirt in liquorice (left) and ash (right)

In addition to offering reworked Fred Perry classics, the Laurel collection is branching out for AW10 and beyond by working with a number of British brands to create a number of key wardrobe staples. First up the duffle coat. Fashions come and go, but the duffle coat remains a staple in many a stylish wardrobe and Fred Perry have recognised this by working with one of the best makers around, Gloverall. Gloverall have been producing their famous duffle coats for over 50 years, starting in a London factory close to St Paul's Cathedral and still made in England to this day, the name Gloverall has always been synonymous with the duffle coat and it is great to see a brand like Fred Perry tap in to their expertise.

Twin tipped raglan shirt and Gloverall duffle coat.

As well as working with true British heritage brands in the coming months, the Laurel collection sees the brand use a number of truly British fabrics. Most excitingly, Harris Tweed. For AW10, they use the fabric for Harrington jackets, ties and weekend bags. It is the most iconic of all tweeds, woven by hand, and adored for decades the world over. Or it was. For such a burly and utilitarian fabric, Harris Tweed evokes an a great deal of romantically nostalgic feelings and this series certainly captures this. The reason being is that the tweed is still woven by pedal-powered looms in the homes of Scottish sheep herders on the outermost fringe of the British Isles, just as it has been since 1846. 2010 is make or break time for the tweed and it is great to see brands like Fred Perry use it throughout their collection.

Raf Simons' successful collaboration with Fred Perry continues into AW10. The collaboration started off positively and it has only gone from strength to strength.Again, the collection is strongly made up of Simons' own interpretation of the iconic polo shirt, the use of fine knits and great cuts working extremely well with the legendary brand and logo. Each season sees Simons rework the classic laurel logo and here he creates a boy scout badge. As ever, Simons has taken inspiration from the fabrics and textures of classic Fred Perry sportswear but has created a more complete offering with a number of interesting and colourful pieces. A great deal caught my eye as I wandered around the room but key piece that captured my attention was the the long sleeved polo knit (below centre). It is the item that I can't stop thinking about, I just love the knitted sleeve detailing and have never seen anything quite like it.

Raf Simons x Fred Perry Aw10 - I was particularly taken by the use of colour throughout the impressive and diverse offering.

In addition to being able to gaze in to the future season, the press day afforded my first opportunity to inspect the recently launched (and soon to be available to purchase) Blank Canvas collection. This collaboration sees two quintessentially British institutions join forces on a classic four piece range for Fred Perry. The series sees two iconic Liberty of London prints, 'Mark' (paisley) and 'Edenham' (floral) and sees reworked classic pique shirts, a black Harrington jacket, polo shirts and plimsolls. Now that the sun is out I just can't help myself from wanting to dabble with Liberty of London prints...

A closer look at the Blank Canvas collection.

Hentsch Man AW10

Hentsch Man Aw10

Back in May last year we discovered a new menswear brand whose design ethos and approach to retail struck a chord with us. We have been following the continued rise of Hentsch Man ever since. The brand evolved from a seemingly simple search (in theory not practice) for the perfect white shirt. The two friends (Max and Alexia) set about designing their perfect shirt and when they felt they got it right, they placed a small order. After the shirts were soon snapped up by friends and family, the duo set about expanding their offering without compromising their core values of simplicity and function. Over the last year, we have watched with interest as the pair have added trousers, boxer shorts, footwear and luggage to create a more complete menswear collection. Earlier this week I was lucky enough to be talked through the AW10 collection by Alexia and there are quite a few exciting additions to share with you. Over the course of this post I will attempt to offer you the same journey I was fortunate enough to take supported by quotes from the lady herself and an exclusive look at their AW10 look book...

As in every collection, they have the original Jack shirt. This is Alexia's "own personal favourite, probably because it was the first piece we designed. Due to their cut I just think they make guys look really good." They've added three new shirts which have really added a new dimension to the collection, in Benny, denim and Sunday. The Sunday shirt is a button down and the cut is a little square making it a more causal shirt choice. In previous seasons they've received some feedback that their other shirts are too elegant in a way, so they wanted to have a few more relaxed offerings. In addition to the Sunday, they have added a denim shirt which comes in two washes, the washed is super soft and the other is influenced by work wear. Finally, they have added a flannel shirt, which again is more of a casual weekend shirt based on a casual workman's shirt. The looser fit and double pockets make it ideal for a dressed down look. The new shirts have certainly added a more relaxed dimension to the collection.

The collection for AW10 has really grown with this season and in addition to the new shirts, they have added sweaters and jackets. Firstly, there is the Simon striped sweaters and cardigans which are all produced in Scotland and come in three gorgeous striped colourways. There is another new sweater addition to the line which is a hand made, heavy knit that can have a customised pattern added to it. Alexia enthusiastically confessed that this piece has worked extremely well with their buyers in the States who have integrated the logo of their stores in to the knit.

As for the jackets, Alexia was inspired by Wes Anderson's Fantastic Mr Fox and his breathtaking double breasted corduroy jacket. Mr Fox's ensemble of a tight-fitting corduroy suit was based on fabric from one of the dandyish forty year olds own suits and it certainly captured the sartorial imagination of quite a few of us. Mr Fox's suit is made of orange/brown-ish corduroy and this really inspired Alexia Hentsch. It came as no surprise to see that its hero sports a natty double-breasted version of Anderson's own beloved suit, (as captured by the Sartorialist on at least one occasion) tastefully accessorised with a few ears of wheat in the breast pocket. The whole look is akin the colour of a leaf in autumn, in fact Anderson and his team wanted the whole film to look like Autumn. It is little wonder then that this film's style resonates so strongly, as you all know, I am obsessed by the colours of the season and dressing accordingly. Hentsch Man have been making their Joe trousers in corduroy for a couple of seasons now in navy, coral, ochre, aubergine and sky blue. Alexia casually remarked that "AW10 felt the right time to make two piece corduroy suits" and it is difficult to disagree, I'd love to wear one. Their cords come in bright hues and there is something quite exciting and fun about seeing a corduroy suit in coral and sky blue. A mustard suit might be too much for some, certainly not for me but you could always wear them as separates. If these eye poppingly colourful jackets and trousers are still too much,the corduroy offering has been extended in to ties. I've not encountered a cord tie before and I just love the subtle texture of them, I could not stop stroking them. Finally on the jacket front, Hentsch Man have added a couple of safer options, one of which is a beautiful tweed jacket that has the same slim cut silhouette.

"The Autumn/winter season tends to be so drab, everything is grey and blue but we wanted one or two items that just bring a smile to your face. Since the beginning we have experimented with colour and been surprised by the reaction. The very first pair of trousers we did a few seasons ago now came in just a few colours; navy, bright red and pistachio green. We made so many of the navy ones because we thought they'd be the ones to sell but in reality it was the pistachio and red ones which just flew off of the shelves. I think it is because everybody has navy trousers but our customers tend to be the ones who are inclined to push it that bit more." - Alexia Hentsch

The role of colour in a man's wardrobe, particularly during the colder months is an interesting one. I feel that with the help of a certain Japanese high street retailer attitudes have shifted. As mentioned in previous posts, I have injected a much needed shot of colour in to my wardrobe's jugular in recent months. I have mentioned the 'Uniqlo effect' at least twice before on the blog and the Japanese retailing power house is still having an effect on the colours hanging on my wardrobe rail and I've had a a great deal of fun experimenting with the various hues. Walk in to any Uniqlo store and you are instantly hit with an almost overwhelming number of colour variations and it has certainly had an effect on most male attitudes to colour. These colour variations confuse the mind initially but ultimately inspire. The available colour ranges have helped seduce me and many other men away from more muted tones. It is great to see brands such as Hentsch Man offer a similarly colourful but extremely well made and lasting alternative. Due to my recent colour experimentation I've discovered that there are a number of colours that actually suit my natural colouring and tones. Colours that I would have previously steered well clear of now grace my back and wrap around my neck. Even if some colours don't work together, it is fun trying.

Having first heard about the label watched the development of the label ever since I first discovered it via Monocle, it is great to see the labels naturally evolved collection of pieces with each new season. It takes seasons to grow and it refreshing to see that Hentsch Man have not forced anything. What began as a shirt company where they investigated different fabrics and cuts to design the ultimate line of shirts has slowly but surely developed. The next logical step was to add trousers and then they've grown from there, systematically adding new products. It is now only one or two pieces away from a complete collection and I for one am chomping at the bit to see what Alexia and Max have in store for SS10. In the meantime though, I am going to daydream about wearing a sky blue corduroy suit...

A near complete, colourful collection for Aw10

Press Day Highlights: Bill Amberg

Now, we rarely post a single item on the blog with the sole intention of creating a collective drool off (maybe it is through fear of becoming the butt of an Erectizm, ha!) but the below bag made me stop in my tracks and take notice of its beauty...just look at how this pretty this Bill Amberg backpack from AW10 is...

Of course I could have twitpic'd it like I did with Bill Amberg's well crafted leather accessories range for Apple products (including a beautiful ipad case) but I think this rucksack deserves a little post of its on own. Everything created by Bill Amberg is unique but this bag is something special. Unique, not just in sustainable materials and handmade quality, but in outstanding design and innovative production techniques. Made in England by West Country craftsmen, Bill Amberg bags are frequently made from hard wearing vegetable tanned leather, (produced from one of the last remaining pit tanning operations in the UK. Here, the the more familiar tanned leather is paired with an eye catching and super soft nubuck, making this a bag to truly covet.

Rediscovering Kenzo for AW10

Kenzo AW10, the scene outside the show in Paris.

The first round of press days (more to come later this week and next) saw me zig zag my way across the capital and as well as giving my Kudu brogued boots yet another beating the day was full of AW10 recaps and interesting discoveries (which all will be revealed over the course of the next week or two). As soon as Pitti Uomo opened the 2010 fashion agenda back in mid January, the shows came thick and fast and it all became a little too much for even this dedicated follower of fashion and style hungry blogger. During Fashion Month it is quite easy to let an amazing collection slip right by your tired eyes and wanting fingertips. One such missed sartorial treat was Kenzo...

Since his appointment in 2003, Antonio Marras has developed collections naturally akin to the Kenzo spirit, creating a rich, poetic world from a diversity of influences: a fusion of fashion and art. Kenzo has always been a label with distinct personality, primarily the mixing of different cultures. Given full artistic direction on all aspects of the brand, adding childrenswear, homeware, accessories and menswear to his previous output, Marras has firmly taken hold of Kenzo and molded it in his own vision. His personality and talent have infused a new vitality into this much loved but (in my case atleast) often overlooked brand. Brands such as this have to offer a vision, a universe, and a signature and Marras has delivered once again with this collection...

For Aw10, Marras focused the AW10 collection around fabrics and prints as he looked fondly back at generations gone by. Tweed, houndstooth, muted plaid, floral and leopard prints all came together quite wonderfully to create. a texture rich offering that appealed to my mix and match sensibility. There's a great deal of emphasis on decorative layering and the the dusty, muted colour pallet added a certain intellectual feel to the offering. I just lapped it all up and it left me scratching my head as to how I over looked it all during my catwalk stalking of Paris. As I rummaged through the texture filled racks I began to grumble that the days were getting longer and confessed that I was beginning to miss those damp, grey skies because these designs inspired me to perfect the art of Autumn layering.

The AW10 Kenzo mood board courtesy of Another.

Since I discovering the collection I just had to research it that bit more and where better to look than Another? I really enjoyed their First Look series of entries before, during and soon after fashion month. The glimpses at some of my favourite labels mood boards and reading about their inspirations, wants and desires really helped see the collections in a new, brighter and altogether more agreeable light. Now that I've found it, Kenzo's entry is one of my favourites....

"For this collection I wanted to create a mix between the French look of Monsieur Hulot, a character created and played by filmmaker Jaques Tati, and the British film Quadrophenia" Antonio Marras speaking to Another.

Backstage show images courtesy of Dazed Digital.

For Marras, the Jacques Tati creation of Monsieur Hulot has such a unique body language and silhouette. The character would wear his raincoat over his slightly too short trousers. His props of hat, pipe and umbrella combined to exaggerate his famous lurching walk. "It's his unconscious anarchy that fascinates me; his eccentricity; his joy and his freedom, which makes him whistle in the street" remarks Marras.

Backstage show image courtesy of Dazed Digital.

The proportions in the collection were exaggerated to accentuate the playful nature of his way of dressing: large, short trousers that show off marching socks, with slightly too tight jackets and short-sleeved shirts which reveal printed gloves. It was Marras' way of twisting the codes of elegance. Style is also about attitude and Quadrophenia inspired the dark side of the collection, giving it a more aggressive look. It added a rebel touch to a classical wardrobe.

Backstage show images courtesy of Dazed Digital.

Kenzo has had strong values and a certain sense of heritage ever since it was set up by Kenzo Takada in 1970. Now it is Marras' turn with the house and he is undoubtedly taking it forward. It won't be overlooked by me next season in Paris...in fact, I'm already looking forward to the show.

Style Stalking... Imelda Matt

You might think that the phrase 'style stalking' is an exaggeration, but this time you'd be wrong. Ever since we laid eyes on Imelda Matt in a gold suit we knew we just had to get him to do a style diary for us. After months (no, really) of chasing, cajoling and downright begging, he agreed. For those of you who don't know him (shame on you!), here's a little background: since unleashing Her Royal Highness Imelda the Despotic Queen of Shoes on an unsuspecting blogosphere more than four years ago, his sharp tongued take on the wonderful world of women's shoes has brought many a smile to our faces. It has been a firm favourite in our blogroll for as long as we can remember. More recently he launched the aesthetically pleasing Style Tyrant, a street style blog that focuses on the men of Melbourne. Just check out this guy if you need convincing!

Here's what Matt has to say for himself about his style diary:

“Gurrl! Haz you been tokin’ on the crackpipe?” was the Despotic Queen/Style Tyrants response when Eliza asked if I’d consider doing a style diary!

Over the course of the last four years (during which time I’ve been blogging full-time) my bank balance and thus my wardrobe has been on life support.

Blame the GFC. Blame blogging. But for whatever reason, two and half years ago and in dire need of new threads, I started ‘shopping my wardrobe’, hence in lookin’ at my old rags?

But revisiting my purchases of yesteryear with older (albeit wiser) eyes has been a fascinating exercise. Aside for a few key pieces (Orri Henrrison and Subfusco) approximately 90% what I wear was bought during my 20’s.

Obviously, to accommodate my shifting taste my old rags have given a spit and polish. However, for as cash strapped blogger from the 3rd World I’m kinda impressed with how those early buys have stood the test of time.

These photographs are not a study of sartorial chicanery - what you see, is what you get!

The wait was well worth it though, we are absolutely delighted with the images. When the diary dropped in to our inbox the collective squeal of excitement deafened neighbours. No doubt this style diary will brighten up your weekend...

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Day One - Double Denim

Denim jacket is vintage JAG, Shirt from H&M, the jeans are ‘ready for the bin’ and shoes are vintage Hutton’s Playboy creepers

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Day Two - Subfusco

Entire outfit (including the Patrick Bateman vinyl blazer) from Subfusco, shoes by Pierre Hardy

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Day Three - Orri

Jacket and pants by Orri Henrisson, shirt from Saint Augustine Academy and boots picked up in Tokyo

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Day Four - Armani

Trousers are Giorgio Armani S/S 96, belt is Dolce & Gabanna circa 02, knit Arthur Gallan

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Day Five - Helmut

Jacket is Helmut Lang ‘98, trousers are Dolce & Gabanna S/S ‘97 and the shoes are by Max Kibardin

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Day Six - Gucci Belt

Gucci Belt – Jacket by Orri Hennrisson, vintage trousers, belt by Gucci S/S 97, shoes from Kenneth Cole and watch by Nixon

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Day Seven - Burberry

Pants from Burberry, Shirt by RESTERÖDS, Cardigan from Tiger House (Japan), Shoes from ZARA, vintage belt and rings by ATAT

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PETROU\MAN SS11

Almost a year to the day I first encountered the design work of Nicolas Petrou. The launch of PETROU\MAN deservedly received a fair bit of blog love (with Filep Motwary first out of the blocks) as folks were all excited to see the Cypriot designer turn his hand to menswear for SS10. The fanciful images he created for the look book which aim to represent elements of everyday life certainly capture the eye and the imagination. Inspired by men's active sportswear, the debut offering is a mix of patterns, mesh and is a reinterpretation of classic jackets and shirts. I quickly became a fan and was then fortunate enough to document his sophomore collection during New York Fashion Week back in February. I was able to witness first hand the designer's skill in creating a rich, unusual texture achieved through his combination of fabrics and prints. It also allowed opportunity to marvel at the intricate, hand finish detailing including hand dyed tartan suits and embroidered shirts and jackets celebrating the nomads much used tool; the humble safety pin. The collection confirmed that this exciting designer was one to watch and I for one was hooked.

Shots by Nicolas Petrou illustrating the mix of prints.

I have been itching to reveal his vision for SS11 ever since I first heard positive murmurings about it over on Selectism during their coverage of Capsule. Having caught sight of the super soft denim and attention grabbing madras, I was eager to see more and dropped Nicolas an email. Remarkably, he soon replied with a selection of iphone shot images that he snapped while showcasing the collection to buyers and press alike at one of the many US trade shows. This is the collection I've been crying out for all season. Now that most of the buying business has been carried out, Petrou and his team have shot a wonderful look book which I can happily share with you but first a few words from the designer himself on the key inspirations...

"As workwear and heritage lifestyle make way for vintage surf inspiration, Nicolas Petrou combines them all in one unique form with his spring/summer 2011 PETROU\MAN collection. Washed fabrics and hand sewn madras prints are combined with twill and high-tech touches to maximize garments’ breathability and sportswear fusion. Soft denim suiting, pleated trousers, and 50’s inspired tribal prints cut proportions in a manner that defies tradition."

Look book credits: Model: Lyle Lodwick (RED). Photography: Idris and Tony. Styling: Julie Ragolia. Hair & Grooming: Sylvia Dimaki.

The washed fabrics, soft denim tailoring, hand sewn madras and 50s inspired tribal cuts come together beautifully to create a collection to truly covet. Petrou is a designer who mixes fabrics and prints with great skill and his demonstration of craftsmanship never ceases to surprise me. Now, I have to confess that I have spent the last few weeks longing to press the fast forward button on this summer season as my wardrobe screams out for autumnal layering of rich fabrics. Somehow, this collection manages to force me to rethink my haste. I'd happily press pause on this season and live in a constant state of heat and sweat in the capital if I could cool myself off in one of these designs. The collection will of course be presented during NY Fashion Week for buyers and will be styled by Robbie Spencer once again. Having been treated to such a beautiful sneak preview of this PETROU/MAN collection, I'm looking forward to New York even more.

Leitmotiv SS11

If yesterday's post involved Peter Jensen grasping my cautious hand before leading me confidently in to the dazzling and uneasy world of prints, this one sees me getting slapped silly at the hands of Leitmotiv and their penchant for clashing and layering of the whimsical. You might recall that the creative duo behind the label first came to my attention at Pitti Uomo and I introduced their colourful designs soon after. What I didn't tell you in my initial post was how I acquainted myself with their designs. As you know, I was fortunate enough to find myself at the beautiful Jil Sander show which was held in the elaborate garden of a spectacular villa in the far hilly reaches of Florence. As much as I was blown away by the colourful march of Simons' models, my gaze was drawn to two men sitting just in front of me wearing the most attention grabbing all print ensembles. These two gentlemen were Fabio Sasso and and Juan Caro, the creative minds behind Leitmotiv and they were wearing two looks from their SS11 collection. Just over a month on and I can finally share their SS11 look book with you. Prepare to be dazzled like I was by the combinations of paisley, camouflage, polka dots and digital prints....

Of course these creations frighten this print cautious blogger but I like to be pushed from time to time. These Leitmotiv creations encompass both the ancient and the modern, all the while creating an eclectic, ironic, visionary array of designs. By looking to past centuries and different worlds, these prints provide a smile inducing collection. Sasso's passion for tailoring and constant Baroque thoughts combine with Caro's passion for art and all things Gothic. This fusion of these seemingly disparate styles create clothes and accessories that contain the most fantastic stories. The label is an artistic project with a bright and colourful language which frequently teeters on the edge of dreams and theater. It is a label that references art and fashion while showcasing great craftsmanship.