Showing posts with label SS11. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SS11. Show all posts

Friday, April 15, 2011

Casely-Hayford SS11: The Light Through the Darkness


Much of the last twelve months have whizzed right by me, a great deal has been forgotten for one reason or another. There have, however, been a few moments which have seen the dazzlingly fast rotating clock hands stop completely, allowing me ample opportunity to soak up the scene before me. Thankfully time was stopped during my visit to the SS11 Showroom Next Door and my heart still skips a beat or two as memories of Casely-Hayford's The Light Through the Darkness fills my memory. Having enthused over the collection back in September, it is my absolute pleasure to offer first sight of the look book with you...

Cover image; Circeo washed shirt jacket in deep red cotton, Azuil collarless shirt in white Panama cotton, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey.

Casely-Hayford's fifth collection consolidates their now signature style of relaxed masculine proportions, fused with an injection of London's cocktail of youth culture. Since its inception, the label has explored the intriguing duality of English sartorialism and British anarchy but now shapes a unique aesthetic that sees the emergence of the 'Sartorial Nomad' from the shadows of the darkened sensibility of their Afro Punk of the season before. Here, Casely-Hayford visit the the idea of the transcultural traveler, whose identity is an amalgamation of the many countries and influences that once or now surround him.

Looking at this collection, I'm reminded of the photography of Etienne Dehau. In his book about the Bedouin tribes and nomadic peoples of Arabia, the photographer took us to the heart of this immense region, tracking the ancient incense route and the nomadic Bedouins. Dehau's wonderful photographs illustrated the culture of these Arabs – a word that originally meant ‘people of the desert’ – as they move from camp to camp within a land that is both hostile and overwhelming. For SS11, Casely-Hayford have reimagined the nomad. The taletend design duo turn to the purity and tranquil energy of the Bedouin nomad in order to seek out something real and something minimal negating the excess so prevalent during the last decade. The Light Through the Darkness communicates ideas of a rebirth for a new decade. There is a discordant synergy is brought to the forefront of the collection as exquisite tailoring is worn over nomadic white shirts, referencing looks often seen in the confluence of London's East End. Here, the cut is unrestrictive and loose yet it still manages to remain masculine and athletic. Fabrics are natural, colours earthy and the silhouette voluminous but minimal...

Left; Moonstone jacket in grey tarmac wool, Lapis pale grey herringbone drawstring jacket, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey, Brett olive jersey l/s t shirt and Turbeville allotment creeper. 
Right; Luxor stone cotton workwear jacket with turned black hem and Cinnabar navy ribbed cotton fatigue pants.
 
Left; Volga gathered coat in greige wool,  Azul white Panama cotton collarless shirt, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Turbeville allotment creeper. 
Right; Circeo washed shirt jacket in grey/check reverse cotton, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Aldous 2SB, greige wool jacket, Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt. Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey and Isherwood brown leather sandals. 
Right; Marmor marine cotton knit cardigan with Touareg pattern front, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Arandis grey ribbed cotton waistcoat, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.
Right; Tropf bi-colour minimal Mac, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy/black cotton,  Afyon scoop neck stone crushed jersey t-shirt, Cinnabar stone ribbed cotton fatigue pants.
Right; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Anatol white cotton Chino, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy in khaki cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.
Right; Belvoir navy canvas reversible coat, Agra bellows pocket waistcoat in navy organic cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Left; Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.
Right; Aldous 2SB greige wool jacket, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Basalto flat front trouser in greige wool and Bentley brown leather quilted slipper. 

Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Look book credits
Photography: Katinka Herbert
Photography assistant: Christopher Kennedy
Art direction: Casely-Hayford & Son
Model: Yussef Yu, Fine Artist.
__________

Monday, April 4, 2011

PETROU\MAN SS11

Almost a year to the day I first encountered the design work of Nicolas Petrou. The launch of PETROU\MAN deservedly received a fair bit of blog love (with Filep Motwary first out of the blocks) as folks were all excited to see the Cypriot designer turn his hand to menswear for SS10. The fanciful images he created for the look book which aim to represent elements of everyday life certainly capture the eye and the imagination. Inspired by men's active sportswear, the debut offering is a mix of patterns, mesh and is a reinterpretation of classic jackets and shirts. I quickly became a fan and was then fortunate enough to document his sophomore collection during New York Fashion Week back in February. I was able to witness first hand the designer's skill in creating a rich, unusual texture achieved through his combination of fabrics and prints. It also allowed opportunity to marvel at the intricate, hand finish detailing including hand dyed tartan suits and embroidered shirts and jackets celebrating the nomads much used tool; the humble safety pin. The collection confirmed that this exciting designer was one to watch and I for one was hooked.

Shots by Nicolas Petrou illustrating the mix of prints.

I have been itching to reveal his vision for SS11 ever since I first heard positive murmurings about it over on Selectism during their coverage of Capsule. Having caught sight of the super soft denim and attention grabbing madras, I was eager to see more and dropped Nicolas an email. Remarkably, he soon replied with a selection of iphone shot images that he snapped while showcasing the collection to buyers and press alike at one of the many US trade shows. This is the collection I've been crying out for all season. Now that most of the buying business has been carried out, Petrou and his team have shot a wonderful look book which I can happily share with you but first a few words from the designer himself on the key inspirations...

"As workwear and heritage lifestyle make way for vintage surf inspiration, Nicolas Petrou combines them all in one unique form with his spring/summer 2011 PETROU\MAN collection. Washed fabrics and hand sewn madras prints are combined with twill and high-tech touches to maximize garments’ breathability and sportswear fusion. Soft denim suiting, pleated trousers, and 50’s inspired tribal prints cut proportions in a manner that defies tradition."






Look book credits: Model: Lyle Lodwick (RED). Photography: Idris and Tony. Styling: Julie Ragolia. Hair & Grooming: Sylvia Dimaki.

The washed fabrics, soft denim tailoring, hand sewn madras and 50s inspired tribal cuts come together beautifully to create a collection to truly covet. Petrou is a designer who mixes fabrics and prints with great skill and his demonstration of craftsmanship never ceases to surprise me. Now, I have to confess that I have spent the last few weeks longing to press the fast forward button on this summer season as my wardrobe screams out for autumnal layering of rich fabrics. Somehow, this collection manages to force me to rethink my haste. I'd happily press pause on this season and live in a constant state of heat and sweat in the capital if I could cool myself off in one of these designs. The collection will of course be presented during NY Fashion Week for buyers and will be styled by Robbie Spencer once again. Having been treated to such a beautiful sneak preview of this PETROU/MAN collection, I'm looking forward to New York even more.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Leitmotiv SS11

If yesterday's post involved Peter Jensen grasping my cautious hand before leading me confidently in to the dazzling and uneasy world of prints, this one sees me getting slapped silly at the hands of Leitmotiv and their penchant for clashing and layering of the whimsical. You might recall that the creative duo behind the label first came to my attention at Pitti Uomo and I introduced their colourful designs soon after. What I didn't tell you in my initial post was how I acquainted myself with their designs. As you know, I was fortunate enough to find myself at the beautiful Jil Sander show which was held in the elaborate garden of a spectacular villa in the far hilly reaches of Florence. As much as I was blown away by the colourful march of Simons' models, my gaze was drawn to two men sitting just in front of me wearing the most attention grabbing all print ensembles. These two gentlemen were Fabio Sasso and and Juan Caro, the creative minds behind Leitmotiv and they were wearing two looks from their SS11 collection. Just over a month on and I can finally share their SS11 look book with you. Prepare to be dazzled like I was by the combinations of paisley, camouflage, polka dots and digital prints....





Of course these creations frighten this print cautious blogger but I like to be pushed from time to time. These Leitmotiv creations encompass both the ancient and the modern, all the while creating an eclectic, ironic, visionary array of designs. By looking to past centuries and different worlds, these prints provide a smile inducing collection. Sasso's passion for tailoring and constant Baroque thoughts combine with Caro's passion for art and all things Gothic. This fusion of these seemingly disparate styles create clothes and accessories that contain the most fantastic stories. The label is an artistic project with a bright and colourful language which frequently teeters on the edge of dreams and theater. It is a label that references art and fashion while showcasing great craftsmanship.

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Discovering Armando Cabral

Exclusive first look at Armando Cabral

You should recall that one of my highlight experiences of the AW10 season was a visit to the Showroom Next Door during the height of London Fashion Week. The Touba Distribution curated showroom allowed me the opportunity to inspect and fantasise over a few of my favourite brands while introducing me to a few new ones. I spent the best part of two hours fully immersing myself in the new collections of Mr. Hare, Casely-Hayford, H by Harris and Bruno Chaussingnand before being acquainted with Japanese denim specialist Sable Clutch and amazing knitwear by The Inoue Brothers. The space became my dream walk-in wardrobe the moment I stepped through the doors of 16 Hanover Square. More than that though, it was a space that exemplified everything that I find exciting about menswear design in London; namely it's diversity and constant sense of sartorial evolution and revolution. Having kept in contact with one of its key curators, Fode Sylla, I am pleased to declare that the Showroom Next Door will return for SS11 throughout the upcoming LFW. In addition to this piece of exciting news I can also offer an exclusive first look at one of the new additions to the lineup, the debut offering from Armando Cabral.

Armando Cabral as shot by Adrien Sauvage at Showstudio as part of TNS

“Style. You either have it or you don’t. Armando’s got it”.
Simon Foxton

Now the name Armando Cabral should be familiar with you. Cabral is quite simply one of the most recognisable male models Having already made his mark on the catwalk, his namesake shoe range is the next step. The footwear line sees Cabral team up with Rucky Zambrano who spearheaded innovation and technology at Vibram before serving as Head Designer for shoes and accessories at Hugo Boss. Together, they make quite a team. Making its international debut for SS11, Armando Cabral is a collection of luxury footwear for men. Ahead of its release on the international markets, Armando Cabral hosted a small presentation in Lisbon, Portugal, which gained coverage in the most prestigious local publications but didn't make it online (to the best of my knowledge). Unsurprisingly, the collection was soon picked up by several major boutiques and department stores in Portugal. Armando’s international debut collection for SS11 has already gained the support of many key-players in the world of men’s fashion. On a retail level, a small preview presentation in July has already landed the brand prestigious accounts including Beams international Gallery in Japan and an exclusive with Wrong Weather in Porto. The upcoming SS11 main presentation in London is eagerly awaited by press and buyers alike but I can offer a bit of a preview...

This is one beautiful desert boot. The moment I clapped eyes on them my feet were crying out for them...

...but what about this mustard version...

...or this Gunner friendly red. Oh I want them all.

The ideal shoe for a bright summer, boat moccasin

A more neutral boating moccasin option

I know EJ loves purple but what about this hand painted moccasin?

High-top

The huarache sandal

Handmade in Italy out of the highest quality materials, the range includes modern takes on classic shapes, all the while showcasing attention to detail and a vibrant colour palette. As you can see above, the collection offers a full range of styles ranging from high-top sneakers to classics like the desert boot, boating moccasin and woven sandal, all with an individual signature. The huarache sandal for example, has been updated with the addition of a vulcanized rubber sole, to combine the sophistication of the traditional upper with the flexibility of modern technology, while the boating moccasin comes in supple Swiss leather, with a hand painted finish for the coloured versions. The lasted constructions are lined in high quality calf leather, with suede, full grain and cotton canvas outers.

The combination of Cabral's innate style and Zambrano's eye for design and attention to detail has created an elegant addition to the men's footwear market. If I was excited enough about the next installment of the Showroom Next Door before I knew about the addition of Armando Cabral (which I was), now my mind and limbs are as restless as a child's on Christmas Eve. Roll on London Fashion Week.

Friday, April 1, 2011

J. Lindeberg SS11 - The Modern North

The Modern North.

For SS11, J.Lindeberg continue its endeavour of redefining modern classics with a Scandinavian point of view. By respecting old traditions and combing them with the technical advancements of today, Pierangelo D'Agostin's sophomore collection is one of pieces that you wish had been hanging in your wardrobe for years. I first encountered the collection's mix of lightweight functionality and elegance when the look book images dropped in my inbox at the tail end of last month. Ever since then I've been eager to get my hands on the collection and last Friday I got my chance. Before I pick out the key pieces and look at the highlights in more detail, I think it best to take another glance through the look book to help see what my fuss was all about...







"It’s about elegance with a new attitude, we provide the components for you to put together and create your individual point of view"
Artistic Director, Pierangelo D’Agostin.

For inspiration, D'Agostin looks to the ever growing population of urban cyclists of our city landscapes as he revisits not only the aesthetics, but also the purpose, and functionality of a garment. Each garment has been shaped and further developed with technical fabric mixes and
advanced construction methods. Fast becoming the chosen form of city transport for the modern and aware man, cycling, and the function found in utility clothing, evolved from a specific purpose. J. Lindeberg’s focus is to adapt these concepts and apply them to fulfill the demands of the modern world.

A rail of covetable pieces.

Ultimately more relaxed and stripped down to its bare essentials, utility outerwear is reworked to ensure that it is ready for the modern day, urban challenges. Since its very first collection in 1997, J. Lindeberg has successfully combined fashion with sportswear yet it is really under Pierangelo D'Agostin's design stewardship over the last two season that have since the brand grow in to a covetable label. J. Lindeberg is once again embracing its Scandinavian roots and there's an Italian at the helm to thank for it.

The knit in the centre is unbelievable thin yet retains the appearance of a thick cricket jumper.

We all know that the Spring/Summer months can throw up all kinds of challenges and here aviator inspired hoods and military patchwork detailing provide protection. Contrasting patterns enhance shirts and pixelated army prints provide urban camouflage, while trousers are cropped or worn rolled up to offer technical elegance whatever the weather. As an accolade to the cyclist, the ‘Dreyden’ blazer has been created to include technical mesh membrane to evaporate moisture, 4 way stretch for movement and a reflective collar.

A closer look at the Dreyden blazer's collar. Notice the reflective strip.

Reflective turnups.

In a recent interview with Dazed & Confused, D'Agostin mentioned the importance of collaborating with his tailor, Eugenio and revealed one of his guiding statements... 'Perfection doesn't exist. If you find it you are lost. If you are convinced of having found it, it's time to change your job.' SS11 might not be perfection but it cannot be far off. Proportions are streamlined, shortened and tailored closer to the body. Innovative Japanese fabrics are bonded together, constructed with taped seams and ready to perform.

One of the highlight jackets, this is ideal protection from Spring downpours.

I love the fabrics D'Agostin has sourced, this chambray shirt utilises two of them.

The coastline of Scandinavia provides the colour palette; soft and neutral tones of wet sand, fresh white surf and deep marine blues provide a backdrop for the vibrant oranges and corals found on the town houses of Stockholm. The accessories offering has grown considerably this season. Contrasting printed scarves of silk and cashmere in vintage patterns caught my eye in particular as did the brushed suede shoes...

Just look at the combination of fabrics and textures in this look. The moment I saw it, I envisioned spotting it at Pitti Uomo SS12.

A close up of the silk handkerchief in action.

A flash of vintage inspired luxury.

And another...

Even the ties had the most fabulous vintage prints.

This look encapsulates the collection wonderful, well tailored utility clothing for the warmer months.

Ever the shoeist, these brushed suede shoes held my gaze for some time.

Having been soaked a number times in the last few weeks a significant part of me wishes I had the type of lightweight protection afforded by this collection. I live and learn.