Discovering Lewis Leathers

Disovering Lewis Leathers

Known for their distinctive motorbike jackets, Lewis Leathers is one of the UK’s most enduring clothing companies. It is true heritage brand. Founded in 1892 as a “Tailoring and Outfitters Shop,” it began stocking protective clothing for motorists and aviators from inception. It has survived wars, dramatic changes in social history and the ever changing winds of fashion for almost one hundred and twenty years. However, until very recently I knew nothing about them. My eyes were open wide to this institution of leather the moment they came across Andrew Bunney's breathtaking biker jacket during my visit to Dr Martens. Bunney has long been a convert to their jackets and as soon as I touched one of his own jackets (he currently has three and is looking to add a fourth) I too became a disciple. As I began to drool over the soft grey leather of his biker jacket he informed me that he had conducted an in depth feature on the store for Honeyee and I'm pleased to find that it is now live.

Images from the Honeyee feature. Photographs by Tommy.

At its height in the 1970s, Lewis Leathers had six shops nationwide in Sheffield, Birmingham and London. The stores offered boots, accessories and made-to-measure leather jackets but by 1986 all had closed. Remaining as a made-to-order business for many years, Lewis Leathers have recently opened a new London shop close to the original address of 104 Great Portland Street. Never forgetting the initial goal to outfit members of Britain’s cycling community. The spirit of D. Lewis remains and with it a consistent balance between function as riding product and fashion icon.

Family-owned until 1981 when the company changed hands, the helm eventually fell to Derek Harris. Harris has been the owner of Lewis Leathers since 2003 although his involvement with the brand stretches back some 20 years. In actual fact, his involvement with the brand began as a customer. His passion and obsession led him to research the true company history, the products’ evolution and Lewis Leathers’ significance in UK motorcycling and fashion culture. Bunney talks at length with the charismatic and knowledgeable, fifth generation owner and I heartily recommend that you make yourself a cup of tea and partake in a spot of interesting procrastination. I've been inspired by this piece and will make the trip to Lewis Leathers, so you can expect a follow up feature to be posted at some point next week.

The gift of KZO

While Susie was grounded in New York for an extra week due to the Volcanic Ash billowing out of Iceland she used her time wisely by visiting a number of designers at their studios, experimented with a spot of DIY and even went shopping...for me! I think you'll agree that this is the best type of shopping. So, when I finally saw her huffing and puffing down our corridor followed by more luggage than she left with she was was excitedly clutching a bag from Aloha Rag. Her excitement soon erred towards apprehension as she handed me the bag as doubts whether or not I'd like it began to creep in...the words "If you don't like it, I'll have it" rang out as I tore open the bag like a spoilt brat on Christmas morning. As I discovered the unstructured patterned knit blazer inside her concern soon evaporated as I let out some exclamation of joy.

The present that Susie can borrow but not steal off me. KZO Knit Unstructured blazer worn over Silver Spoon Attire shirt and wool trousers by Unconditional.

I had only recently become aware of KZO after stumbling across them on oki-ni while searching for the perfect pair of casual shorts for the (hopefully) warm months ahead. This wonderful gift made me dig a little deeper on the brand. KZO might be based in the Arts District of Los Angeles but there is a distinctively Japanese aesthetic that is intertwined with and seen through a US West Coast lens. The reason for this is KZO took its name after creative director and brand founder Joel Knornschild's American-Japanese grandfather, Kazuo Iwasaki. Kazuo translates to Peaceful Man. From a young age, Joel fell in love with photography, cinema and film and each collection is designed around a cinematic process that begins with a video treatment, soundtrack and visual storyboard. A video camera capturing unfolding stories always accompanies him. Fashion, music and film collided when Joel began writing and directing music videos for various bands in the US and Japan, and from there KZO evolved.

KZO's Into the blue, out of the black

The SS10 collection that drew Susie's gaze is titled 'Into the blue, out of the black' is made up of an indigo, black, blood red, heather gray, sky blue, charcoal and sky blue palette. Pieces include chambray woven shirts, organic fabric knits, tom Japanese selvage denim and mosaic fleeces. However, the real highlight of the collection is the €231.08$312.87¥27878.71 soft unstructured jacket in a blue and cream cotton mix that Susie expertly picked out. Regular readers will know that I tend to avoid prints and patterns (polka dots aside) by playing it safe all too often but this is something I'm keen to work on. Having had this piece at my disposal for the last week I have to say that I've enjoyed injecting a dash of pattern in to an outfit and this present has given a little more confidence to experiment.

Two of my favourite looks from KZO's SS10 look book.

Style Salvage Speaks to... Oliver Spencer

Oliver Spencer founded his eponymous label in 2002 and has always made clothing that is seen rather than heard. Oli wanted a collection that mirrored his own wardrobe; a bridge between popular street wear and traditional tailoring. He approaches everything from a luxury standpoint but then injects functionality to create collections that combine classic English style with hints of Americana and Japanese ideas to consistently dish out a modern sophisticated aesthetic. Quality fabrics. Modern fits. Old school construction. Characteristic details. Exquisite craftsmanship. This recipe remains today. It is undeniably a modern British brand. More than half the line is made in the UK and while striving for quality Oli sources the fabrics and buttons before overseeing how it's all sewn. So, when we were invited to pop down to the flagship store on Lamb's Conduit Street to see the store and to speak with Oli we jumped at the chance. We've said many times on the blog that strolling down this special street in Bloomsbury feels like a little retail reconnaissance and Oliver Spencer has played no small part in that. Here we learn more about the evolution of the brand from Favourbrook, the community spirit of Lamb's Conduit Street, the importance of craft and manufacture and how Oli sees the brand evolving over the next few years...

The inviting store front on Lamb's Conduit Street.

SS: How did it all start for you? What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind Oliver Spencer?
Oliver Spencer: It all started with some corduroy suits. I was doing more and more work for our other label Favourbrook that was becoming more and more luxe utilitarian/casual. I like the whole un-constructed thing. At that time a dark brown corduroy suit washed, unstructured was a big turning point for me. I wore it virtually every day.

SS: Aside from it being your name, what does Oliver Spencer mean to you?
Oliver Spencer: It’s Englishness. I am lucky enough to have two interesting straight forward names, I think it tends to stick in peoples heads, at least we would like to hope so! Otherwise I still find it a bit weird!

SS: When you founded the label back in 2002 you wanted a collection that mirrored your own wardrobe; a bridge between popular streetwear and tailoring. Does this recipe still remain? How has the label evolved over the years?
Oliver Spencer: Yes this recipe does still remain. I still make everything for myself. Colour has been the main influence going forward, primary colours are a big area in menswear.

SS: What were the first and last item you remember designing?
Oliver Spencer: First item was a waistcoat. The last was a cardigan.

SS: Craft and local manufacture are obviously very important to you as over half the line is made here in the UK. You must work with some extremely small and remote factories. Is it difficult to find them and how has your relationships grown over the years?
Oliver Spencer: No it is not difficult to find the factories, you just need to know how. Most of the factories that we work with, we have developed so they work to within our specifications. The main one that we use is an ex Burberry factory, so they have all the tools and the experience for the job. We love making in the UK.

SS: Now on to your wonderful store. Lambs Conduit Street (as profiled by Monocle last year) shows what can be achieved in retail areas as it champions a real community spirit. Whenever I speak to brands looking for a premises of their own they often dream about this stretch of Bloomsbury. How easy was it to come by? And what, do you think, makes the street so special?
Oliver Spencer: The street has great community in it, with a mix of local and professional, generally very open minded people. Key to the whole mix is three or four great pubs, which means it is a good place to go out at night too. My friend Cathal from Folk introduced me to the street and I have never looked back.

SS: What are your favourite pieces in store at the moment?
Oliver Spencer: Chukka Boots in blue suede with a white sole. Tennyson Red Navigator Jacket.

SS: How has the menswear landscape changed since you launched the label? What excites you about the future of menswear?
Oliver Spencer: Sorry to bang on about it but colour! This is the way forward for menswear. We have become more casual in the right way over the years and we use a lot of detailing. Our mantle is to be seen and not heard.

SS: Collaborations are a key facet of the brand. During the last couple of weeks we've seen the unveiling of your travel shirt with Monocle and your capsule shoe collection for Topman. What have been your favourite collaborations to date? Who would you love to work with in the future?
Oliver Spencer: For me collaborations at the beginning were brought to mind for Junya Watanabe for Commes des Garcons. Future collaborations, I have to think carefully about this as we get approached a lot and it is important that brand synergy is on the same playing field. All I can say is it will definitely be an English brand.

SS: How do you see the brand developing over the next few years?
Oliver Spencer: Footwear will develop for us. Accessories, bags and trousers I believe will be the main growth area.

SS: Finally, would you be able to share a few address book recommendation to our readers which we will duly add to our map...
Oliver Spencer: Badlams Hairdresser’s on 37 Lambs Conduit Street (Bloomsbury, London WC1N 3NG). The Espresso Room on Great Ormond Street (31-35 Great Ormond Street, London WC1N 3HZ) and Café Gitan in New York.

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If you are ever in and around Bloomsbury you just have to stroll down Lamb's Conduit Street and pop in Oliver Spencer.

Travel Organised

Smythson of Bond Street is one of the UK's most revered luxury leather goods labels. Established in 1887 by Frank Smythson, an entrepreneur and inventor of the brand's signature blue Featherweight paper, Smythson's attention to detail and quality craftsmanship quickly found favor with an elite clientele. Today, the company boasts three Royal warrants and the Prime Minister's wife as Creative Director. It has always been more than a mere stationary shop. It is something of an institution on one of London's most revered retail streets. I have often walked past, peered inside and resisted temptation to venture in to this unfamiliar but fine smelling world (oh I do love the scent of leather). Thankfully, despite my nervous disposition, I am now a proud owner of a Smythson item.

This Christmas, my sister and brother-in-law have come up trumps in the gifting trumps. After being spoiled rotten in recent years, with gifts ranging from a Le Creuset pot to Bose headphones, they have excelled in both the fine art of giving and gratuitous art of spoiling. This Passport Holder comes in butter soft Nile Blue calfskin leather. It is something that I'd never buy myself but I am now so pleased that someone has. The travel organiser comes with two subtly embossed pockets for a passport and boarding pass. I no longer have an excuse for either losing or fumbling with my travel documents.

Despite being hugely comfortable in front of the television with a mind boggling amount of food this festive season, this present makes me long to travel. Here's to a jet setting 2011.

Veja Indigenos and new methods of work

Veja Indigenos Hi Top

As I found out in March, Kapok in Hong Kong is a store that only stocks brands that combine design with craftsmanship. However, many of the products go even further, introducing social and environmental issues to the mix. This was no more apparent than with trainer brand Veja. They are considered by many to be the green sneakers and rightly so but they are much more than that. I have to be honest with you, when I hear the words eco friendly my mind is filled with thoughts of clumpy hemp or folksy printed creations but fortunately Veja have a different proposition. The label was set up in 2003 by two Frenchmen determined to fight worldwide deforestation, exhaustion of natural resources and Labour exploitation. They have managed to come up with one of the best looking fair trade products I've ever come across, none more so than the Indigenos range for AW10...

These low and hi tops are made with suede that is tanned without heavy metals or chromium with soles made with wild rubber from the Amazon.

Kapok's owner, Arnault assured me that they are both stylish and comfortable while ensuring your conscience is clean. When I returned from Hong Kong I was keen to learn more about the brand. However, before I could even draft a desperate email to their press department I had an email waiting for me in my inbox inviting me to their new London showroom. So, last week I popped down to see them to find out as much as I could about the brand. What struck me straight off was the close knit nature of the team (the London office has only three staff) and how they let the products do the talking for them. You won't see any fairtrade labels pasted on to any of their products. Veja has created a global chain that emphasises solidarity and the environment ranging from their small producers in Brazil to the European concept stores that we are all more familiar with. The brand works directly with Brazilian small producers, who are organized into cooperatives, of organic cotton and natural latex from the Amazon. The girls at Veja showed me the below video which really helped me understand how models are made. Right from tapping rubber in the Amazonian rainforest to picking organic cotton, following them to the assembling factory in Porto Alegra before being shipped off to France...

Veja produce simple, low profile trainers produced to a very high quality. With organic cotton from the Northeast of Brazil, wild Amazonian rubber and ecological leather, it is inventing new methods of work while still creating trainers with designs to get excited over.

A look around Oi Polloi's new store...

Peering through the window of Oi Polloi's new store.

Since opening its doors back in 2002, Oi Polloi has offered an antidote to the mass of bland, uninspiring men's fashion stores lining the high street. As their website puts it: "with a vision of putting together the ultimate selection of classic, functional outerwear with innovative contemporary labels and a serious arsenal of casual footwear, Oi Polloi was born". Over the subsequent years, one of our favourite independent stores has managed continued growth without sacrificing any of its identity or core values. Whenever Steve came up to Manchester we always made the trip to the Tib Street store.

The main window display

The major drawback to Oi Polloi was how teeny tiny the store was. Politely and in true Estae Agents speak we'd call it cosy. Bluntly though, it was just too small. Much of Oi Polloi's business comes from their excellent online shop, but sometimes you just can't beat a bricks and motar store. On the back of their continued and obvious success Oi Polloi moved to a new 1,600 square foot space just before Easter, providing double the size of the previous store. So, when Steve came visiting last week we just had to take a look around...

It was great to see that Action Man and his trusty sidekick had made the trip to the new store. Here they take pride of place on the Brooks' cabinet.

The large cabinet of Brooks' saddles and accessories. A Brooks saddle is a British design classic and it takes centre stage at the new store.

A glass cabinet showcasing the handpicked look of the season. The choices reflect the ideal sartorial arsenal for a weekend getaway...

We were both taken by this display of Fjallraven Kanken bags. A classic lightweight day pack in hard wearing vinylon fabric in a Spring/Summer friendly selection of colourways.

We particularly took our time over this rail. Nigel Cabourn's clothing for obsessives, with production split between England and Japan, using only the finest British materials and fabrics. The detail is phenomenal.

Another well stocked rail of delights

This workbench sat in front of the huge denim wall and features fabulous knits from Folk.

One of our favourite features of the new store is the full shoe wall. Everything from Yuketens to Clarks, moccasins to brogues is on display.

A closer look at the Sperry Top-sider and bucks by Sander. The Topsider blueprint for the American boat shoe, and the cornerstone of Classic Nautical Style.

And what a change it's made. Still stocking as many great brands as before, it is now easier and more enjoyable to browse (did we mention that the staff are really friendly, knowledgeable and happy to chat? Though we should warn you that the Manc accent seems to be infectious judging by the way so many of their customers speak once they step through the doors) and you realise just how wide ranging and varied their stock is. As you can see from out excitedly snapped images above, rails of the latest pieces from Nigel Cabourn, Our Legacy, Heritage Research, Engineered Garments, Oliver Spencer, Folk, Saint James, Barbour, Lavenham (oh the list goes on and on) are accompanied by glass cabinets showcasing cycling and outdoors accessories. Although it is so much larger than the intimate Tib street store, the new location just feels right and you get the sense that the guys are loving the extra space.

At the risk of sounding cheesy, Oi Polloi seems to be more than just a clothes store, bordering on a lifestyle. The Brooks cycling accessories are beautiful enough to make us want to enter the Tour de France just to have an excuse to buy them. Along similar lines they mentioned to us the desire to have kayaks and a couple of tents in store as well. Perhaps if Oi Polloi have their way by this time next year we'll have all have taken up (very stylish) camping? We'll just have to wait and see. In the meantime the new store gives an even bigger reason to make the trip to Manchester.

Veja's Centre Commercial

The two founders of Veja have embarked on an intriguing retail project located in a neighbourhood that favours slow shopping, a few steps away from the Saint Martin Canal, and its cafés, and terraces. The space is a natural extension of the values behind the label and combines fashion with social commitment and artistic projects with environmental concerns. For those of you unfamiliar with the label, the origin of the Veja project can be summed up in one question: is another world possible? 

Over the last six years Veja have helped put forward their answer by creating a global chain that emphasises solidarity and the environment, from the small producers in Brazil to the European concept stores that sell its growing product range. Centre commercial offers labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark and houses second-hand bicycles, vintage furniture and art works. It is a collective space, uniting local, social and environmental initiatives. The retail space showcases their varied but ultimately complimentary influences. Here we speak with Veja's Aurélie Dumont to learn more about the store and the brands plan for the future. 

SS: Centre Commercial instantly feels likes the antidote to fast paced retail. Was this one of the driving catalyst for the project?

Aurélie Dumont: Yes, Centre Commercial has been thought of as a place to slow down.  Reminiscent in the ways of our grandparents, we wanted to favour know-how and continuity. Rather than mere products, Centre Commercial will curate genuine projects.

SS: How did the project arise, was it always part of the Veja plan, if not how did it evolve?

Aurélie Dumont: Veja was created in 2004 with the intention of proving that it is possible to work differently. We have created a strong social, economic and, ecological chain from small producers in Brazil to the doors of European stores. During these past two years we have started adding a cultural dimension to Veja having been inspired by people we have met along the way: designers with really great projects going far beyond the ecology or meeting artists with fascinating messages. We started organising art exhibitions and a series of unconventional talks, and we soon felt that we needed a space to feature those messages.

Centre Commercial is meant to be a place to slow down and to question what we consume through a selection of locally made clothes and accessories, furniture sourced by antique dealers, committed installations and artistic projects, bicycles revamped by a social charity and shortlisted books and publications.

SS: What does Centre Commercial mean to you?

Aurélie Dumont: In a way, the name itself refers to mass consumption. The name is a nod to the works of the French philosopher Bernard Stiegler and suggests questioning our consumption habits. Centre Commercial is a shopping center. A selection of clothes, accessories, furniture, bikes, cosmetics, books and publications has been put together…. a shopping center then …but modeled after us. 

SS: Like the Veja label itself, the space manages to combine fashion with social commitment and artistic projects with environmental concerns. It is a space infused by your varied but ultimately complimentary influences. How did you curate the store?

Aurélie Dumont: Centre Commercial is meant to be a place to slow down and to question what we consume through a selection of locally made clothes and accessories, furniture sourced by antique dealers, committed installations and artistic projects, bicycles revamped by a social charity and shortlisted books and publications.  Among the selected wardrobe for both men and women you will find brands such as Knowledge Cotton Apparel whose shirts are crafted in Denmark using organic cotton, Saint James who has been knitting their fisherman style jumpers in Brittany since the 1950’s or La Botte Guardiane whose boots and shoes are hand-made in the French Camargue following traditional methods.

An enticing mix of product from labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark.

SS: Centre Commercial offers labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark whilst housing second-hand bicycles, vintage furniture and art works. Are the brands and individuals involved friends of Veja? How did you find the right mix of products?

Aurélie Dumont: Our ambition was to create a space which would work as a catalyst for projects and initiatives we like.  Ties between those projects will probably arise where we don’t expect them.  From fine artists to fair trade certification bodies, we will feature individuals and companies which work differently.

Veja and Gloverall

SS: Would you be able to talk us through some of your favourite products currently in store?

Aurélie Dumont: One of the most interesting discoveries so far has been the quarterly French XXI publication. XXI features seasoned novelists, recognized investigative journalists and major graphic novelists depicting our current world through well-documented and in-depth articles. Both the latest issue and the 11 back issues are available at Centre Commercial.

SNS Herning knits

SS: Aside from fabulous product, what do you hope the consumer will take away from the store?

Aurélie Dumont: We hope that they will take away the feeling that trade can be done in a different way while experiencing a certain aesthetic. Centre Commercial aims to be a place where minds can meet. The book selection for example, contrary to what is on offer in a traditional library, counts only ten books in total. These have been carefully chosen by a French editor, they are his current selection of great books he’d like to share. That selection will be periodically renewed by each new literary specialist.

Knowledge Cotton Apparel whose shirts are crafted in Denmark using organic cotton

SS: The store sounds far from static, the curation of product and art is an on going endeavor. How would you like to see the store evolve? Is there anything that you are particularly looking forward to in the near future (for example a particular delivery of product or upcoming exhibition?

Aurélie Dumont: Centre Commercial opened last week featuring the fine artist Kleber Matheus from São Paulo, whose works are made from neon light tubes. More exhibitions will be unveiled in 2011. For the coming months we will have more ‘made in France’ garments, some promising accessories and a new exciting project around bikes.

Centre Commercial aims to slow down the retail experience.

SS: Finally, what's next for Veja?  

Aurélie Dumont: 2010 has seen the launch of Projet Numero Deux, our debut line of day bags and accessories in collaboration with London-based store Darkroom and the exclusive web platform oki-ni.com. Vegetable tanned-leather wallets and laptop sleeves made of organic cotton have just been released. For 2011 we have worked on new exciting styles and an exclusive collaboration with French Trotters which will be soon uncovered!

Centre Commercial is located at 2 Rue de Marseille in Paris.

Advent - Twenty Four

Whilst nurturing some of the best menswear design talent in the capital and beyond, b store have been merging art, fashion and design seamlessly for a number of years now. With each visit to the Savile Row institution, there is the chance to discover a new designer, an exhibition, a magazine or even just a moment when you talk to them and leave with something new. You can always expect to be surprised when you visit the store. Here's what's on Matthew Murphy's Christmas list...

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FRENCH COPPER PANS BY THE PIERRE VERGNES FAMILY

I love these classic set of french copper pans made by the Pierre Vergnes Family..........perfect for oven baked ham and eggs, 'Leila's cafe' style!

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'SANDALWOOD' EAU DE COLOGNE BY SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Most of Santa Maria Novella's cologne's are beautiful..... but I like to alternate Vetiver and Sandalwood, which is my current favourite..... The original store in Florence is amazing and is where I first fell in love with the fragrances.

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Into Africa via the Darkroom

Into Africa store event at the Darkroom

The Darkroom opened its doors on the characterful Lamb’s Conduit Street in Bloomsbury just late last year and since discovering it in early February I've popped in at every opportunity. The concept store comprises a curated mix of interior and fashion accessories alongside bi-monthly art and sculpture exhibitions. This summer, the Darkroom is going colourful with their latest in-store event, titled Into Africa. Kicking off in April, the showcase explores modernist interpretations of indigenous Africa textiles, jewellery and art. Designs include a limited edition range of laptop and pouch bags by Harris Elliott, a range of hats made from vibrant Africa cotton by Noel Stewart, limited edition prints from David David’s archive of bold geometric patterns, jewellery pieces by Florian, Corrie Williamson and Fred Butler using Brie Harrison prints, as well as a range of leather wallets in vibrant colours by menswear designer Kenneth MacKenzie of 6876.

As you all should know, the H by Harris line initially began with beautifully made laptop cases crafted in London from the softest leathers. The offering has since grown and developed in to a luxury luggage brand. For this season, he has teamed up with the store to create one off designs comprising laptop cases and pouch bags, each lined with bold African prints.

Butter wouldn't melt...

Fred Butler joined forces with Brie Harrison to develop a stunning and exclusive African print design for the Darkroom, masterfully crafted in to both neck and wrist accessories.

Fred Butler and Brie Harrison combine

Store owners Rhonda Drakeford and Lulu Roper-Calderbeck have handpicked a selection of designs and showpieces by various talented designers, which are displayed alongside pieces from Darkroom’s own collections. As I explored the store event temptation was staring blankly at me, from Lynn Cockburn's braided belts and key rings (more on that one day soon) to Anglo's weaved belts.

A bench that had me reaching for my wallet...

For the benefit of those of you who are unfamiliar with Anglo Leathercraft, it is a British brand and has found huge following in Japan, yet are little known in the UK. Their leather belts and bags are all made in England using the finest and most intricate leatherworking techniques. The ones seen here are ideal for the warmer months ahead.

A bowl of bow ties caught my eye

Just as I was leaving the event my eye caught sight of a bowl of colourful print bow ties and handkerchiefs. They reminded me of my temptation to give the styling of Casely-Hayford's SS10 presentation a try but before I cover my arms in eye catching hankersleeves I might just liven up the breast pocket of an old jacket with one of Darkroom's own brand printed pocket squares.

These would certainly liven up any jacket.